Recent content by Magyver

I've been away for a while, sold my trusty but rusty TB and picked up q surprisingly clean and low miles Yukon. Absolutely love it. But, the quirky engineers at GM have proven their quirkiness once again by showing their attempts at alternatives to conventional wisdom, and in this case it's...

Yeah the guage is no measure of oil pressure by psi, but only as an indicator of the presence of oil pressure. UPDATE: No more oil leaking. Perhaps the VC is seeping near the firewall, but it isn't barfing out by any means. I took off the resonator and dumped out several tablespoons of water...

Texan: I didn't notice the PSSHHT again after the one time. I did notice about 2 tablespoons of water pour out the resonator when I removed it, and I think it was collected in the little tank kinda thing where the vent hose connects. I blew into that hose and I could hear stuff moving through...

Illogic: That makes sense, as it would be difficult to think that RMS would get the sides of the block wet and not throw oil everywhere else. There really isnt a way to know without removing the intake manifold, is there? How would oil get on the pass side of the block if its not coming from...

I've been reading up on the ins and outs of VC gasket replacement. It looks like a time consuming job, and this time I don't have that kind of time to spend on it. So I'm looking for any other reason for oil to be present on both sides of the motor, toward the firewall.. Again, I see no signs...

OK so I know what it is, it's called a cover, for the seconday air injection system. The photo revealed that I was missing the first digit "1" from the part# printed on it. duh. That must mean no oil leaking from it either. So back to valve cover gasket? One other thing I didn't mention was...

Hi All, I thought my VC gasket went bad today, judging from the burming oil on the EX manifold, and oil wetness on the side of the motor. When I got home and removed the air tube I discovered that this mysterious part was broken, and the seam of the VC was dry. SIDE NOTE: the other side of...

A late update....changed both front and rear, used MAPP to heat things up, and no problems. The rear joint was toast, all the needle bearings had disintegrated from on side , and the end of the cross was just sloppy in the end cap. My bad for letting it get like that. Anyway, no clunks...

Yup the noises are the same and i will start with u joints. Thanks everyone!

Now I'm back from my trip, about 800 total miles, mostly highway, and the vibration seems to be a little worse but not too much worse, and now there's a new sound. Rather, the same sound that's louder. Not sure if it's rear end gear or u joint, but the link is a video to capture the sound...

Smt--- I haven't actually crawled under yet. I imagine by prying against the yoke and joint I could see play or not. I was asking more about how far to let it go before it becomes a risk of failure. Mileage is 140k, all stock. No off roading, no big tires, no major amounts of towing.

In the past few weeks I've been noticing a clunky sound in the rear end area when going into gear especially from park, and thought it was the beginnings of u joints. Lately there has been a slight vibration around 30 on acceleration, and coasting in neutral makes it stop. I don't feel it...

The clicking and clanking with the AC on is sort of opposite the usual problem of the typical clutch bearing failure isn't it? From my experience the whining sound diminished when i loaded it by turning on the AC. It seems like clicking and clanking while engaged would a problem with the...

See above post:) The detail about the liftgate position making the disappear indicates that there is a break in the wire and that halfway is where it connects again. I cut every wire in that boot right in the middle, and ran a bundle of new pieces through with 2-3 inches sticking out of the...

So before i went and rebuilt the whole car, i just checked the wires under boot, and found 2 broken wires. Problem fixed! I had just ASSUMED that since i fixed wires before that they were good. Now they all have about 4 extra inches spliced in so that there is plenty of slack at each end...