Recent content by darsch

This way of flushing worked great, took 15 liters. I put a stake in the ground and clamped the end of the hose to it pointing into the drain pan which made it easier to stand closer to the ignition to shut the truck off when necessary since I was by myself. There was some fluid still in the...

Okay good, that's how it's explained in the videos but then kickass through me off by wanting to get all the dirty fluid out before changing the filter. Thanks guys.

So to see if I got this straight, I would do like the beginning of the video shows to pump out the first bit of fluid but then start adding more and more new fluid while the engine is running until all the dirty fluid is gone, then continue siphoning until empty(about 3-5L). Then take the pan...

Okay, good points. Kickass - did you re-use that oil from the pan and how many liters would be in the pan? Sounds like a big mess taking that pan off full of fluid, unless there is a drain plug or a person has all the special shop equipment.

I know this is an old thread but I was wondering if it's still necessary to change the filter and remove the pan if the tranny is in overall great shape with just the fluid turning darker? Could a person just flush the fluid out?

They say with all their testing they can't find anything wrong with the throttle body so I may have finally fixed it with that re-learn procedure. Finally some good news. Now onto the power steering lines and the transfer case motor.

What I tried this morning was idle for 3 minutes, off for 1 minute, idle for 3 minutes, off for 1 minute, start and go for a spin. Drove for about a mile and it ran perfect as before it would have given me codes by then. Went to drop it off at a mechanic this afternoon and it ran perfect again...

Is there a computer re-learn procedure that has to be done when another throttle body has been installed? Now when the engine is cold it throws a code every couple of city blocks while driving, sometimes idles at 1500-2000rpm while in limp mode and then when the engine is fully warmed up it runs...

Update: It died twice today on the way into town and the mechanic said right away it's a common problem with my mileage on the truck plus the drive by wire system and to put another throttle body on it. So Monday I'll pick up the used one and will be trying that one out.

I just took a look at the connector and it is just below the outer edge of the connector body. I tried to force it a little deeper but I don't think it moved. I did manage to just barely get it to click but still might not be all the way. I'll just stop by a shop sometime when I'm driving around...

I think I figured it out today after it died again and I couldn't get it to restart and run properly without just staying in limp mode. I unplugged the wire connector going into the throttle body and plugged it back in and it started and ran fine. I'm having a hell of a time getting it to plug...

I went on a two hour drive today, mostly highway driving. No issues and no off-idle hesitation. Hopefully I won't have to keep my fingers crossed every time I drive it.

AtlWrk - When the engine dies, it's instant. When it restarts and doesn't run normally, it stumbles like crazy like it's on one cylinder or not getting any gas. So now it may be a wait and see game the next time I go for a long enough drive to see if it acts up again. I guess I could have it...

Yes u-pull might be cheaper but there doesn't seem to be any of those around here, at least not for that part. I found another one here in BC for $75 + $20 shipping but don't know what the mileage is on it. New remanufactured is $328 unless you know of a cheaper place to buy one? I had the...

I've got a can of MAF Sensor Clean and was curious if this is safe to spray onto the electrical connections? Thinking of making sure the PCM and throttle body wire connections are clean. I also found a used throttle body and a PCM for $150 each with 135000kms on it.