Recent content by NateDG

Ok, fair enough but where and how would I even connect it? The illustrations I've seen were in that service document you posted and no one does it in videos so I'm totally clueless at the moment. EDIT: This is what I've been looking at for the most part...

Your last post behind mine had a .pdf that instructed to be holding the rack, but those instructions were also for doing the work OFF the truck and in a vice. I'm doing this work ON the truck because I don't have the know-how to remove the whole dang rack. I just wanna know if I'm gonna screw...

I'm about to be dealing with this replacement in the next day or so due to the outer absolutely refusing to spin out of the inner so my question is does the steering gear only need to be held with that pipe wrench if the job is being done OUT of the truck? I've been reading up on this...

They're LED pods with both amber and white LED diodes. I wired my crap up so that I would have both reverse illumination and rear amber signals.

My reverse lights are switch back LEDs.

I would think this would look awesome as long as the light dispersion is good and even (unlike my back-lighted grill badge ). Can't wait to see the finished product!

Just to ease my mind: if the BCM were bad, it wouldn't command auto lights off would it? That functionality is still good and so is the auto-on with the light sensor. EDIT: Went to the local U-pull yard n got both relays (HDM n fan clutch) for 5 bucks (instead of paying 36 for new ones) and the...

Same 9 (ish) volts at the fuse n can't get in the holes for the relay to check that but check this out... Pull the relay and voltage at pigtail goes away. Tried a bad relay from a friend's truck that's been riding around with me and no change. Swapped the fan relay over to headlight position and...

Cap mod removed and no change. Would the headlight switch in the cabin cause this condition?

I'm seeing the 9 volts with the key out, ignition off and headlight switch off. That's what I don't understand.

In reading my last post again, I see how it wasn't clear. What I as saying is that I DO have the cap mod. I have the whole time. What I meant was I thought maybe had something come loose there but I checked and it's all good.

Hi-beam has zero voltage without stalk engaged. I thought about the DRL full power mod I have done but it's never been an issue until now. Only thing that's different than a week ago is that I got a new relay pack/harness from TRS cuz I used to have to smack the old one to get it to kick.

This is also the voltage coming off the factory harness going into the housing with the green, yellow n ground wires. Switch? Funny timing if that's the case...

I'm having a problem getting the low beams to fire unless I'm cranking the engine. They don't react to the switch in standstill or while the engine is running. I have 8.9 volts on the trigger to the relay pack with the switch in the OFF position and 12-something when on. Do I have something...

Output shots of MD2S 2.0 to 3.0 upgrade. Still a WIP...