Inner tie-rod ends

[Paul Bell]

I'm gathering parts to do a full front end suspension replacement, including outer tie-rod ends. I'd also like to do the inner tie-rod ends.

I've never replaced these parts before on any vehicle.

Ay advice or tips on how to do the job? The kit looks like it comes with new straps to re-seal the boot.

 

[JerryIrons]

Not sure if you are aware, but if you ever need to change out the steering rack, most of them come equipped with new inner tie rods and boots.

 

[Paul Bell]

Thanks, I figured that.

Can they easily be replaced?

 

[Mooseman]

It's not a common job, I haven't done it yet but from reading, doesn't sound too bad. Use a large adjustable wrench on the rack to keep it from turning while unscrewing the inner tie rod. Check what the manual says.

 

[jpimp]

I did it last summer.
Not a bad job.
Moose is right, large adjustable wrench.
Special tool made for the job is too small to use on our trucks.
Lock tight when installing new ones.

 

[meerschm]

You can get a set of tie rod wrenches that work fine,

Lisle 45750 for one.

the cheapo harbor freight one needs to be modified, but this one does not.

They make the job pretty easy, and let you apply the proper torque after.

 

[Paul Bell]

Thanks folks, I feel I'm ready to do the job.

meerschm, I'm ordering the Lisle set. I'm a tool guy.

 

[meerschm]

I actually ordered the lisle 46800 came with a nice plastic case that looks good on the shelf.

 

[Black08TB]

Sorry for bumping up an old thread, but I figure it's better than starting a new one on this topic. I have a few questions about replacing an inner tie rod end on my Trailblazer.

1)What is the torque spec on the inner toe rod?
2)When removing the inner tie rod, or torquing it down, should I hold the steering rack arm and keep it from twisting and possibly damaging the rack?

I have the tool to remove the inner tie rod, just concerned I might do damage to the rack during removal and installation. Any help is appreciated, thanks!

 

[Mooseman]

Looked it up on GM-SI and they do say to use a pipe wrench (yes, a pipe wrench!) to hold the rack.

 

[Black08TB]

Thanks Mooseman, I appreciate the help!

Found the Torque spec, it's 74lb ft.

 

[NateDG]

I'm about to be dealing with this replacement in the next day or so due to the outer absolutely refusing to spin out of the inner so my question is does the steering gear only need to be held with that pipe wrench if the job is being done OUT of the truck?
I've been reading up on this replacement for about 6 days straight now and this is the only time I've heard mention of this.

 

[Mooseman]

I'm on my phone but IIRC, it's with the unit in the truck.

 

[NateDG]

Your last post behind mine had a .pdf that instructed to be holding the rack, but those instructions were also for doing the work OFF the truck and in a vice.
I'm doing this work ON the truck because I don't have the know-how to remove the whole dang rack.
I just wanna know if I'm gonna screw something up, because NO OTHER forum post or video has mentioned once about holding the rack in place.
The Chilton manual mentions inner tie rods ZERO times in the volume I have.

 

[Mooseman]

Had a look at AllData and they showed the R&P in a vice as well. But if it's secure in a vice, why would it be necessary to also hold the rack with a pipe wrench? It's to prevent the rotational force from damaging the gears.

Probably everywhere they don't mention the pipe wrench is either ignorance or laziness. I would use the pipe wrench either way. It is not necessary to remove the R&P from the truck.

 

[NateDG]

Ok, fair enough but where and how would I even connect it?
The illustrations I've seen were in that service document you posted and no one does it in videos so I'm totally clueless at the moment.

EDIT: This is what I've been looking at for the most part...
http://www.offroadtb.com/articles/how-to-guides/tie-rod-replacement/

 

[Mooseman]

They're using an inner tie-rod tool, which GM doesn't even use (just an open ended wrench). To get the pipe wrench on, you'd have to turn the wheel to make the rack extend out more. I'd also apply a little heat to the end of the rack to break the red Loctite's hold.

Using the pipe wrench could be overkill by GM.