NEED HELP Air bag resistor value

mudpaws672

Member
Joined
Mar 17, 2021
Posts
31
Location
Long Island, NY
Hey guys, so my TB is 20 years old this year. I use it for a station car, and occasional weekend trips. It runs flawlessly, but I have the annoying SRS light always on. I DO own a high end scan tool, and pulled a couple B codes before. I can do it again to list them here.
What I really wanted to hear about was if anyone knows the resistor values and how they went about getting the light off using them instead of expensive impact sensors.
This truck of mine doesn’t warrant me spending the money on SRS sensors, TBH. I’ve already spent good money on making it safely handle with quality shocks, sway bar bushings/links, and even replaced both the rear trailing arms due to one being cracked in half.
I know someone here has done this, please share your experience and any insight you have. Thank you very much!
 
So you want to swap a sensor for a resistor?
 
You may be "Sitting On Top of The Answer to The Problem" right now...

(1) Turn Off The Ignition and Remove the Ignition Key...

(2) It is always BEST to Follow the Service SRS Air Bag Safety Warnings documented in the OEM Manuals courtesy @Mooseman 's efforts for us and available over HERE for Members at GMTN:


(3) This is a SIMPLE, sometime effective way to eliminate a Nagging Air Bag Warning Dash Light: Locate the Yellow SRS System Plugs under your Seats... DO NOT UNPLUG THEM! But with Great Care...Gently SQUEEZE THE TWO HALVES OF THE YELLOW PLUGS TIGHTLY BACK TOGETHER.

(4) Insert the Ignition Key and Rotate it through its entire range of motion and then Start the Vehicle.

(5) Observe the Dashboard IPC for the presence of the Warning Light. If it has vanished...Cool Beenz..!

(6) If NOT... Then you will need a Bi-Directional Scan Tool ("GYMKO" Tech 2 , Autel MaxiDas DS708, Bosch-GM Knock-Off, etc.) to perform the Diagnostic-Re-Set.

(7) If any actual Hardware and Component Replacements are involved... FOLLOW THE GM DIAGNOSTIC FLOW CHART LISTED IN THE OEM SHOP SERVICE MANUAL ADHERING TO ALL SAFETY REQUIREMENTS.
 
  • Like
Reactions: budwich
FWIW I found a used front sensor on ebay for 20 bucks. Maybe getting some cheap used parts may be an easier option than fidgeting with resistors and such (don't want to use the wrong one and make the vehicle think you hit something!)
 
And disable the airbags in the process. Not good if you do get into a collision.

If you have a u-pick yard, get a used one. I've seen people hit windshields with their faces, it ain't pretty. Hitting the steering wheel is no fun neither.
 
I do appreciate everyone’s replies. We don’t have anything cool here like the u-pull yards. I WILL check eBay and the area wrecking yards. I don’t want this truck nickle and diming me. I’m afraid if I get the two front sensors, and there’s still an issue with the spiral cable? The cruise decides if it wants to work or not depending on the time..
I’ve driven old cars for most of my nearly 35 years licensed…I don’t care about SRS systems that much.
 
Why do you think there may be an issue with the clock spring?

Cruise could simply be a flaking out brake light switch. I didn't have that happen on my Trailblazer, but it did on my Silverado and I had to kick the side of the brake pedal to get it working again until I replaced the switch.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mooseman
I’ve driven old cars for most of my nearly 35 years licensed…I don’t care about SRS systems that much.
I've been driving for over 40 years and it's the other idiot drivers out there that scare me. Have a look at this crash test. If you look at the dummy, without the air bag, even with the seat belt, it would have hit the steering wheel.

'Nuff said.

Cruise can also be disabled by certain powertrain codes. If your money light is on or even just a pending code, that's also a likely cause.
 
Last edited:
Why do you think there may be an issue with the clock spring?

Cruise could simply be a flaking out brake light switch. I didn't have that happen on my Trailblazer, but it did on my Silverado and I had to kick the side of the brake pedal to get it working again until I replaced the switch.
I will start it on a random day, and no matter what I do, I can’t get the cruise to work, or even light up on the dash. It behaves like it doesn’t have cruise. No status lights, nothing. Then other times it works fine.
 
  • Like
Reactions: budwich
Cruise is not connected to your clock spring since all the controls are on the turn stalk not the wheel itself. Something else is going on.
 
you should check that your brake lights are functional as that is one "symptom" of a bad brake switch which is actually three switches and that there are no burnt bulbs therein.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Beacon
Also check your brake light bulbs. Cruise will not work if one is burnt or flaky.
 
you should check that your brake lights are functional as that is one "symptom" of a bad brake switch which is actually three switches and that there are no burnt bulbs therein.
Thank you, my lights are all fine. None are out, but I’ve found that this truck is an electrical nightmare lol

Also check your brake light bulbs. Cruise will not work if one is burnt or flaky.
Yep, I always am on top of my lights. They’re all good. Thanks man.

Cruise is not connected to your clock spring since all the controls are on the turn stalk not the wheel itself. Something else is going on.
Thank you. 😅 Cruise has been cooperating lately..
 

Forum Statistics

Threads
24,307
Posts
649,084
Members
20,828
Latest member
cobalt60

Members Online

No members online now.