Everything works, won't start

Ryan05 LT

Ryan05 LT

Member
Nov 19, 2013
10
Northwest Indiana
05 Chevrolet Trailblazer LT
Emerald Green, no mods all OEM

Every topic I read whether it be on google or here doesn't describe exactly what I've got going on.

So, this just happened today for the first and second time and is already making me mad. I got in after work and went to start the ignition and when I turn the key, the CEL (which is on due to pre existing conditions), the radio, overhead lights etc all turn on. The starter doesn't crank at all, I return the key to off position and try a few times more and still nothing. After waiting 3-4 minutes, the CEL and everything turn off and then I can start the engine like normal.

Does anyone have anything similar sounding or past experience? I've read about pulling fuses to reset the electrical and all, which I haven't tried. I would prefer not to have to do that every time I want to drive and not wait 4 minutes to get going. Any help is appreciated.
 
So what are the codes that are causing the CEL to come on? We need a little bit more information. There have been a rash of no start situations lately.
 
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What does the security light do?
 
FWIW, the CEL will be on if the key is in "RUN" but the engine is not started. That is normal operation.

Mooseman has a good question on the security light. It shouldn't remain on.

When I had a similar experience on my truck (the no crank scenario) it was the starter that was going kaput. Got it started, started fine again later, then didn't start again. A test light on the solenoid wire (not the fat wire from the battery) would at least tell you if the vehicle is sending the power to the starter to begin with.
 
It's been about ten years, but IIRC, that sounds like the same problem I had when my ignition switch acted-up.
 
The CEL is for the secondary air injection system. The poor GM design on that one is going to forever cause it no matter how many pumps I replace. But as Sparky said this may even be just the normal operation.

As for the security light, it doesn't stay on while this is all happening.

It's all very strange. Even after I turn the key to off and pull it out the CEL is on and the cluster backlights stay on. As do the radio lights, but the radio lights would stay on under RAP. I open the door and all accessories lose power as they should, but the CEL stays on. Then 3-4 minutes later the CEL turns off and it starts up as it should. Is that the period of time it takes for the computer to dump the RAP?
 
Try to wiggle the shifter in park while starting, then try to start it with the gear selector in neutral.
 
Ryan05 LT said:
The CEL is for the secondary air injection system. The poor GM design on that one is going to forever cause it no matter how many pumps I replace. But as Sparky said this may even be just the normal operation.

As for the security light, it doesn't stay on while this is all happening.

It's all very strange. Even after I turn the key to off and pull it out the CEL is on and the cluster backlights stay on. As do the radio lights, but the radio lights would stay on under RAP. I open the door and all accessories lose power as they should, but the CEL stays on. Then 3-4 minutes later the CEL turns off and it starts up as it should. Is that the period of time it takes for the computer to dump the RAP?
Click to expand...

OK I take back what I said. If the CEL light stays on after pulling the key that sounds like a classic ignition switch failure.
 
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Okay, new oddity.

I was on lunch today and decided to go see if the CEL/Security lights were on. I peered in the closed window with doors still locked and all to find the security light and CEL illuminated. I went no further into investigating and just walked away. 2 hours go by, I went back outside, same approach.. Doors still locked just peered in and the security light was off, but the CEL was still on. This time I decided to try to start it so I unlocked the door and went to start it. Rolled the key forward and nothing happened.
I'm currently tryin a 'key relearn' or something like that that I read on the ol trailvoy pages.
 
After everything you guys have all suggested or been through in past years as well as some googling and video watching, I'm convinced of the same thing. The CEL was on all day and killed my battery, which in turn locked my key in the ignition until I jumped it. I drove home and pulled the key out of the ignition only to have the CEL immediately turn on (first time it's happened so rapidly), the fuel pump sounded like it turned on and then I heard what sounded like the starter click. All of this with the keys out mind you. I pulled IGN E fuse #22 which was the only ignition fuse to make the CEL turn off. I'll put it back in tomorrow morning and change the ignition switch at work.

Will be back and update after I change it, thanks everyone for your help thus far.
 
Sounds like ignition was on the whole time if the CEL and fuel pump were on, indicating the PCM was still being powered. Ignition switch.
 
Mooseman, It wasn't on the whole time, just kinda started going nuts for about 30 seconds and kept flickering and such.

So, pulling IGN E (fuse #22) didn't help last night, still woke to a dead battery.
I replaced the ignition switch about an hour ago and the problem still exists. At least the problem of the CEL is on when the key is out. It's weird though.. Since the battery died completely, the CEL isn't displayed during vehicle operation because the computers haven't been "tripped" as faulty yet, since I haven't cycled the computer yet. It's still displayed when I power off and pull the key though.

So, it's not a blown fuse, I've pulled em all under hood and in cabin.
It's not an ignition switch, just replaced it.
It's not a faulty door sensor, I tried opening the passenger door and it still happens.
I've done a visual inspection as well as felt all relays for temp and none were warm/hot.
Someone suggested maybe a neutral safety switch, but I can't see how that would affect the CEL. The starting issue, maybe, but not CEL.

Is there a fuse I can pull so at least my battery won't die until I figure this issue out? Jumping it every time I want to drive is taxing on the brand new battery and a giant PITA.
 
You would need to do a power drain test using a DMM with amps. Basically you would put the ammeter between the battery post and terminal to see the current draw. Wait a while until things settle as some things do go through a reset procedure. Then start pulling one fuse at a time to determine where the larger draw is coming from. You can quickly eliminate anything from the rear fuse panel by removing the 125A Mega fuse. If that's where the draw is, then you can concentrate on the rear fuses only.
 
The cel light is likely indicating a "key in run" situation whether as a "misalignment" at the switch or some circuit holding up a connection to battery that is feeding it back thru. It is more likely a switch issue as this is where you have been "treading".

With your key out (if you still have enough battery power left... :smile: ), get a meter and check any circuit that "key in run" as a power input (eg. fuse 22)... measure for voltage at the corresponding point in the fuse box... if its there, you have confirmed your symptom and then you maybe able to go from there by either attacking the switch or doing as suggested by others... isolating thru the fuse box.
 
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Did you purchase this vehicle new or used? If used then there's no telling what the previous owner had installed.

I would pull down the panel above the drivers knees and feet and see if there's been any work done with an aftermarket alarm or stereo. Look for any cut and or retaped/spliced wires.
 
Hey Ryan, Just curious if you ever got this resolved?
 
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