Lowered Rides!
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STLtrailbSS
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21mm wrench and a pry bar I had to pry on the inner wall a tad when backing and reinstalling the bolt.....grab a beer
Reposted from the Suspension thread
Front Suspension:
DJM Upper Control Arms, cut and rewelded further out to fix camber and to fix ball joint angle
DJM 2" Drop Strut Mount
Belltech Drop Strut with no spacers
Bump stops removed
Energy Suspension Sway Bar Bushings
Energy Suspension Sway Bar Endlinks shortened
Fenders cut to allow Upper Control Arm travel
Aftermarket Washer Tank / Coolant Overflow Tank relocated since the Upper Control Arms were hitting them
Rear Suspension:
Belltech 3" Drop Springs cut down to 5"
Belltech Drop Shocks
DJM Rear Swaybar
Suspension MAAX Endlinks shortened to 2.5" (3rd set, finally found a good one)
Airlift Helper Bags set to ~30 psi
Mini C-notched frame
Spohn 4-link Adjustable Upper and Lower Control Arms
Spohn Adjustable Panhard Bar
Exhaust Turn Downs before the Axle
Btw Eutech I'm still in love with your truck.
Front Suspension:
DJM Upper Control Arms, cut and rewelded further out to fix camber and to fix ball joint angle
DJM 2" Drop Strut Mount
Belltech Drop Strut with no spacers
Bump stops removed
Energy Suspension Sway Bar Bushings
Energy Suspension Sway Bar Endlinks shortened
Fenders cut to allow Upper Control Arm travel
Aftermarket Washer Tank / Coolant Overflow Tank relocated since the Upper Control Arms were hitting them
Rear Suspension:
Belltech 3" Drop Springs cut down to 5"
Belltech Drop Shocks
DJM Rear Swaybar
Suspension MAAX Endlinks shortened to 2.5" (3rd set, finally found a good one)
Airlift Helper Bags set to ~30 psi
Mini C-notched frame
Spohn 4-link Adjustable Upper and Lower Control Arms
Spohn Adjustable Panhard Bar
Exhaust Turn Downs before the Axle
Btw Eutech I'm still in love with your truck.
Playsinsnow
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Question...Surf? Pic with the board?Haha believe it or not I've never surfed in my life. I was given a surfboard once by one of my uncles, but I never made use of it and I don't know how long ago we got rid of it lol. I'm not a big fan of the beach, I think I accidentally swallowed some salt water when I was younger or something. Just getting the water in my mouth and tasting it makes me gag. I guess it's like living in the mountains and never going snowboarding or skiing lol.
BoldAdventure
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BoldAdventure
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eutechnyx
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thanks man I really love your truck too!fr34kout said:Reposted from the Suspension thread
Front Suspension:
DJM Upper Control Arms, cut and rewelded further out to fix camber and to fix ball joint angle
DJM 2" Drop Strut Mount
Belltech Drop Strut with no spacers
Bump stops removed
Energy Suspension Sway Bar Bushings
Energy Suspension Sway Bar Endlinks shortened
Fenders cut to allow Upper Control Arm travel
Aftermarket Washer Tank / Coolant Overflow Tank relocated since the Upper Control Arms were hitting them
Rear Suspension:
Belltech 3" Drop Springs cut down to 5"
Belltech Drop Shocks
DJM Rear Swaybar
Suspension MAAX Endlinks shortened to 2.5" (3rd set, finally found a good one)
Airlift Helper Bags set to ~30 psi
Mini C-notched frame
Spohn 4-link Adjustable Upper and Lower Control Arms
Spohn Adjustable Panhard Bar
Exhaust Turn Downs before the Axle
Btw Eutech I'm still in love with your truck.
blazinlow89
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bbarker89 said:
That's the low pro tires. Spohn and Massive make adjustable ones for the rear. You should also upgrade your end links. I think another member modded a set of MAXX ones to be shorter for their truck.
blazinlow89
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Envoy_04 said:How much lower can one actually get a Corvette?
You know and inch here, and inch there. Eventually ants will cower in fear.
bbarker89 said:
Thats up to you, I am sure like when lifted, when you lower the rear end can shift to one direction, with the adjustable you can re center the rear. I would look at reviews on TBSSowners. Others may come along, or start a thread.
Describe what's shitty about your ride? Each component does different things and helps with different problems. I have pretty much any part you would want in the rear (besides coilovers) and each one serves a different purpose.
The Belltech anti-sway bar is larger in diameter which makes it harder to flex. The point of the sway bar is to connect the left and right side together to help with cornering. Without a sway bar, if you made a sharp right turn, the right spring and shock would compress, but the left wouldn't. This makes the truck sway, or roll under turning. The swaybar is there to help prevent this, and have the car be more level during cornering to keep the tires more firmly on the road to improve grip.
The sway bar endlinks help return the sway bar to the correct position (mounting points of the bar should be parallel to the ground). The further away the bar is from parallel, the less effectively it works. I had to shorten my endlinks from ~6" down to ~2.5" to get it back parallel with the ground.
The Spohn adjustable 4-link and panhard allow you to correct the geometry of the axle in relation to the truck. When you drop the car, the stock 4-link suspension brings the axle forward and the stock panhard bar shifts the axle to the right iirc. The adjustable parts allow you to lengthen these parts and put the axle back in the center where it belongs.
If the ride is shitty because it's bumpy, it's because of your spring and shock setup. I believe the TB's other than the SS don't have stock rear air suspension, so I'm assuming you're either on the stock springs and shocks, or drop springs. If you haven't upgraded your shocks, get a set of Belltech Street Performance shocks, they help a whole hell of a lot. If the ride is still too stiff, you can do what I did and install a set of Airlift helper bags inside of the spring to help cushion the compression of the spring when going over bumps and what not.
Hopefully that helps, and you can figure out what components will improve what you don't like about your ride quality. I'm at a ~5/5 drop, and the truck rides extremely smooth given the height it's at. The only time it's rough is when hitting bumps, dips in the road, potholes, etc because I only have about an inch of suspension travel until my tires rub the wheel wells, and the frame bottoms out onto the axle. Other than that for normal driving it's extremely smooth.
The Belltech anti-sway bar is larger in diameter which makes it harder to flex. The point of the sway bar is to connect the left and right side together to help with cornering. Without a sway bar, if you made a sharp right turn, the right spring and shock would compress, but the left wouldn't. This makes the truck sway, or roll under turning. The swaybar is there to help prevent this, and have the car be more level during cornering to keep the tires more firmly on the road to improve grip.
The sway bar endlinks help return the sway bar to the correct position (mounting points of the bar should be parallel to the ground). The further away the bar is from parallel, the less effectively it works. I had to shorten my endlinks from ~6" down to ~2.5" to get it back parallel with the ground.
The Spohn adjustable 4-link and panhard allow you to correct the geometry of the axle in relation to the truck. When you drop the car, the stock 4-link suspension brings the axle forward and the stock panhard bar shifts the axle to the right iirc. The adjustable parts allow you to lengthen these parts and put the axle back in the center where it belongs.
If the ride is shitty because it's bumpy, it's because of your spring and shock setup. I believe the TB's other than the SS don't have stock rear air suspension, so I'm assuming you're either on the stock springs and shocks, or drop springs. If you haven't upgraded your shocks, get a set of Belltech Street Performance shocks, they help a whole hell of a lot. If the ride is still too stiff, you can do what I did and install a set of Airlift helper bags inside of the spring to help cushion the compression of the spring when going over bumps and what not.
Hopefully that helps, and you can figure out what components will improve what you don't like about your ride quality. I'm at a ~5/5 drop, and the truck rides extremely smooth given the height it's at. The only time it's rough is when hitting bumps, dips in the road, potholes, etc because I only have about an inch of suspension travel until my tires rub the wheel wells, and the frame bottoms out onto the axle. Other than that for normal driving it's extremely smooth.
bbarker89
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fr34kout said:
I have the drop struts from belltech and street performance shocks. Maybe I'm just being paranoid. It seems to be only on pot holes and bumps. But once I get on the highway the front shakes like no other. I do have Tonys a arms that I haven't installed haven't had time. I still have oem spring btw
I have the same sized tires. When you say the front shakes, you feel it in the steering wheel? To me that typically would indicate either the alignment being off, the tires being unbalanced, or what we found on my friend's civic recently that we thought was warped rotors ended up being a bubble on the inside of the tire on the shoulder / sidewall.
How low did you drop the front end? The main things the control arms fix is ball joint angle and camber, so just from the control arms you could be damaging the ball joint or wearing your tires faster than normal. Depending on how bad the wobble is, it could be affecting other things like the wheel bearings.
BoldAdventure
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Envoy_04 said:That's LOW! Bet you have to be careful not to drag. Since a Corvette is a ride - I think we need pics!
bbarker89 said:
Well it's a C3 and they sat higher than the newer ones. I actually don't seem to have a good photo of it. Other than this one of all my rides.
BoldAdventure
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Envoy_04 said:A C3? That's my favorite 'Vette style! What year? If it's an 82 collector's edition then I'm gonna tell you up front that I demand more pics.
1980 in the middle of LS2 swap.
bbarker89 said:
G8 GXP MSM M6 Roof #1405 - #43 of 82 in the whole country as configured
bbarker89
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fr34kout said:
Needed tires re-balanced feel like a moron. i didnt find out one wheel was over balanced and the rst were just slight. if i wouldnt known this i would done it sooner. i bought them used didnt think of having this done since it was just a take off
I would always recommend to balance and check alignment any time you get get new wheels and/or tires, lift/lower, or change suspension components. Wheels and tires are not cheap so might as well spend the extra money to get the most out of your investment, IMO.
STLtrailbSS
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If you ordered them from tbssowners recently you should not have to drill anything, the older models needed to be drilled.
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marble_voy03
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