Power steering leak

[Stuntmanmike1977]

Hey everyone. Did an oil change on my trailblazer today and noticed this leak from the ps hose. My question is what lines do I need to replace to fix this. Just the pressure and return lines or is there more than 2?

 

[Mooseman]

Depends on which one is leaking. One is a pressure line and the other is the low pressure return. You'll have to get them out of that rubber isolator, clean them with brake cleaner and run it to see which one is leaking. It's usually the low pressure line as the high pressure is thicker. I would leave off that isolator to prevent it from rusting again and use some zip ties instead. You'll be amazed at the crud and moisture retained by it.

 

[Stuntmanmike1977]

Will do. Thank you.

 

[Stuntmanmike1977]

Well, I tried to use a new piece of brake line with compression fittings and I ended up with the entire front of the car, engine and ground covered in ps fluid when the line blew off. Was the pressure line that rusted. Can't replace the entire hose where it sits now. Can I get away with flaring the ends of the existing line and using high pressure rubber fuel hose ? We really need a vehicle even if it's just around town.

 

[Mooseman]

If that blew off, then that's the high pressure line. Compression fittings like that or any kind of fuel line patch won't work . You pretty much have to replace it. If you follow that line, it goes to the pump. We're talking about 1000+psi.

 

[Stuntmanmike1977]

If I double flare the ends and use fittings with a premade steel brake line will that work or no? It's weird, mine didn't rust out it actually rubbed on the top of the strut tower and made a pinhole. Already used a tubing cutter and cut out the bad section about 6 inches. As far as the fluid everywhere I'm guessing either super clean or purple power and taking it to the car wash. Made a real mess.

 

[Mooseman]

Might work except the old line might be brittle or have some rust on it and won't flare well. No harm in trying though but be prepared if you have to replace it.

 

[Stuntmanmike1977]

Ok, upon further inspection the line that broke is the one closest to the strut. Runs from the rack to the oil cooler then another line that comes out of the cooler to the pump reservoir with a squeeze clamp on it. That is the return if I'm not mistaken? Question is, should I replace just the line that broke to the cooler since I'm on a budget or, bite the bullet and do all 3 or just the 2? Was thinking of at least doing the 2 that go to the rack cause I'd rather just take that on once. And are those flimsy sheet metal brackets that hold the lines (the 2 on the top of the driver side frame) still available? Not sure what to do.

 

[Stuntmanmike1977]

Found all three on rockauto for 70 including shipping. Is Edelman a good brand?

 

[Aroc]

Ok, upon further inspection the line that broke is the one closest to the strut. Runs from the rack to the oil cooler then another line that comes out of the cooler to the pump reservoir with a squeeze clamp on it. That is the return if I'm not mistaken? Question is, should I replace just the line that broke to the cooler since I'm on a budget or, bite the bullet and do all 3 or just the 2? Was thinking of at least doing the 2 that go to the rack cause I'd rather just take that on once. And are those flimsy sheet metal brackets that hold the lines (the 2 on the top of the driver side frame) still available? Not sure what to do.

The line closest to the strut that you have patched is the return line. That line is more suitable to repair since under less pressure. It is worth trying high pressure rubber fuel hose and pair hose clamps on each end to see if that will hold. You may have to replace that line later if the clamps start to leak in the winter months.

 

[Stuntmanmike1977]

I ordered all 3 lines but they won't be here until the 25th. Might try a temporary repair so I can at least move around town. Really don't want to replace the lines where it is but, we'll see how it goes.

 

[Stuntmanmike1977]

One more question. Can I use regular Prestone ps fluid? Doesn't have to be synthetic does it? Or super tech brand? Stuff that's left over in the pump reservoir is thin as water and black so, after I fight the new lines in will have to be flushed. Not sure about rack condition so I should probably stay away from anything that could make that leak. Which one can I use?

 

[Mooseman]

Any brand regular power steering fluid will work. No need for anything special or synthetic.

 

[Stuntmanmike1977]

These are what I need. Or something similar. They don't hold the lines in place at all.

 

[Mooseman]

I'd try using zip ties instead, the one with a mounting hole. There might be some similar wire clamps like this that would work.

 

[Stuntmanmike1977]

I'd try using zip ties instead, the one with a mounting hole. There might be some similar wire clamps like this that would work.

I'll try those, thanks.

 

[Stuntmanmike1977]

Hello. Well I got my new PS lines delivered today and was EXTREMELY unhappy when I opened the box. Ordered all 3 and 2 of them were put together with crimp clamps. The pressure line was like the original but the return line and the cooler line are just clamped. Can I trust this before going through all that work? Would you guys trust these?

 

[Stuntmanmike1977]

Hello. Well I got my new PS lines delivered today and was EXTREMELY unhappy when I opened the box. Ordered all 3 and 2 of them were put together with crimp clamps. The pressure line was like the original but the return line and the cooler line are just clamped. Can I trust this before going through all that work? Would you guys trust these?

 

[Stuntmanmike1977]

Shouldn't they all look like this? Or am I being paranoid?

 

[Mooseman]

Those are the low pressure lines so no, those little clamps are fine, and probably better than worm gear clamps. It's all good.

 

[Stuntmanmike1977]

That's a huge relief. Will start the replacement process as soon as the weather clears up. Thanks for all the help and putting my mind at ease.

 

[Stuntmanmike1977]

I apologize for dragging this on but I gave no experience with these cup seals for the lines going into the rack. I was told to put the seals on the line first to puncture the flap then push them in but, I also saw a video that says not to do that. They put the seals in the rack first then upon lining up the lines and pushing also using a pry bar to open the seal for leverage puncturing the flap getting the lines in then putting the bolt back in. Which way is correct? I can't afford to have a leak.

 

[Mooseman]

I went through this when I installed my lines and rack. The first one I broke when I tried to puncture it with the line. Then I just opened it before installing it and cutting off the flap because on another installation attempt, that flap caused a leak. You can also just reuse the one that's already in there unless it's leaking. It's absolutely the worst seal ever designed.

 

[Stuntmanmike1977]

I'll have to check it under pressure if the old ones are ok. I got most of them out today and degreased the line plate into the rack and around it. So caked up with gunk hard to see under there. Also wanted to make sure I could crack the bolt loose. So, instead of doing it twice, did you open the seal flaps and tap them into the rack or put it on the line and push in the line and seal together? Also, on the spring clamps which were pretty hard getting the hoses off the cooler( had to remove one of the bolts for wiggle room) can I reuse them or replace them with the worm gear screw tight ones?

 

[Stuntmanmike1977]

Also, can I flush the system right after a hose install before I even hook up the return line to the pump after blocking off the return nipple on the pump filling the pump or do I have to fill it and bleed it first? And does the engine off method flush the entire system including the rack? Thanks for all the advice to a bunch of questions and I will post an update when the job is done.

 

[Stuntmanmike1977]

Will try the seal on the line trick but, if I pucture the seal can I slide them back off the line if they need to be tapped in? Just don't want to ruin the seals feeding the lines through if they are that fragile.

 

[Mooseman]

Also wanted to make sure I could crack the bolt loose.

Yes but be careful as I had one break on my '02 EXT and I had to get the broken stub out of the rack. I've done it multiple times since and hasn't reoccurred.

So, instead of doing it twice, did you open the seal flaps and tap them into the rack or put it on the line and push in the line and seal together?

I tapped the seal first in the rack and then pushed the line into it. Be careful taking the old seal out to not scratch or damage the bore in the rack. Screw a bolt of the appropriate size into the old seal to pull it out.

Also, on the spring clamps which were pretty hard getting the hoses off the cooler( had to remove one of the bolts for wiggle room) can I reuse them or replace them with the worm gear screw tight ones?

A worm gear is fine since it's a low pressure return line. I usually double them with the gears on opposite sides to be sure they don't leak or come off. This is the only pic I could find that shows what I mean:

Also, can I flush the system right after a hose install before I even hook up the return line to the pump after blocking off the return nipple on the pump filling the pump or do I have to fill it and bleed it first? And does the engine off method flush the entire system including the rack?

Since you practically flushed it with that leak, you don't really need to flush it again. You can just connect all the hoses, fill it, with the front end jacked up and wheels in the air, turn the wheels side to side, refill, repeat several times. Still in the air, start the engine. The pump may still whine a little. Turn the wheels again multiple times and refill if necessary. Lower to the ground and repeat.

Will try the seal on the line trick but, if I pucture the seal can I slide them back off the line if they need to be tapped in? Just don't want to ruin the seals feeding the lines through if they are that fragile.

You could do that but that's the way I ruined one of them. Luckily I had two of them (expensive little buggers from the dealer!).

 

[budwich]

Are your seals still in place on the rack? If so, leave them alone and put the new lines into them. Your issue wasn't leaky seals, it was a crack line. Playing with the seals potentially only invites issues.

 

[Stuntmanmike1977]

Unfortunately I already replaced the seals. However I did have an inch pound torque wrench but the torque seems way too tight, only the second time I used it in years brand new but could be off, idk. Anyway all 3 lines are in but will be hard to replace the brackets since they don't sit on the top of the frame. I'll post some pics soon so you can see what I mean. I should probably order more seals, I'm not confident that it will stay dry. Also, had to remove the upper control arm bolt closest to the battery. Made it way easier feeding them through. Thanks everyone.

 

[Stuntmanmike1977]

Something doesn't seem quite right. Seems like there is not enough slack in these lines. I can force them down on the frame but shouldn't have to and puts strain on the portion of the lines that run down to the rack

 

[Mooseman]

Shouldn't be a problem bending them a little. Just be careful not to kink them in the existing bends.

 

[Stuntmanmike1977]

Got it running and took it to the store. Might have to repeat the bleeding process other than that the lines into the rack are bone dry and after the bleed and drive all is well. I'll have to check it in the morning. Could not fit the lines all the way on top of the strut tower, was welded and may have to grind it down a little so I can put the rubber insulator and hold down back on. This is how I'm driving it now. Is this ok for a while? Slit 2 pieces of fuel line to protect the lines and zip ties them together.

 

[Stuntmanmike1977]

These I was able to get on but, from bending and reshaping a very rusty part one of them did crack and neither one is locked in but seems to be holding them in place for now. Tried the ones you mentioned but frustration got the better of me. Are there any pictures of what others have done with the same thing? I know they are unavailable.

 

[Mooseman]

I know they are not easy to get in, needing a lot of snaking to get them in, so cudos!

I would not reuse the rubber isolator. Like I mentioned earlier, that is what causes the lines to rust in the first place by retaining water and dirt. I just zip tied them together, no rubber or anything. Been like this for years, no issues.

It sometimes takes an extra day to get all the air out as the fluid often foams and takes forever to eventually get clear. Unless it still whines after several days, I wouldn't worry about it. If it still whines, then the pump probably got damaged from lack of fluid.

 

[Stuntmanmike1977]

Never had a whine to it but it was completely empty. Going to suck out the pump and fill it with another quart of fresh fluid. Maybe add the Prestone with the stop leak as a precaution. There is still some discoloration in the fluid probably some old residual fluid that was left behind. Will leave the insulator off for now. Was talking about the brackets on the frame. Do zip ties work on them too?

 

[Mooseman]

Oh those. They're OK if they're not entirely rusted out. If they are, you could use similar type like the ones I mentioned in post #15.

 

[Stuntmanmike1977]

Yeah just picked them up. I guess I can consider this job pretty much done. As far as the seals go I will have to keep an eye on it it I figured if they were going to leak they would have by now, I hope. Thanks for all the advice.