Putting off a front wheel bearing?

[xOgrex]

Noticed a rotational drone from the front end in my 03 TrailBlazer LT about a week ago. 99% sure it's a wheel bearing (or 2) but I'm looking for some advice. Between August 2011 and October 2013 I've dropped about $4,000 to do various repairs and maintenance. Money is a little tight right now and I'm wondering if the community has any thoughts on how long I can put off replacing the wheel bearing(s)? I only drive the truck 6 to 8 thousand miles each year, so it's not a daily commuter or anything, but I don't want to do more damage by waiting too long. And while I'm thinking of it, are the bearings separate from the hub or do they come as an assembly?

 

[BoldAdventure]

Noticed a rotational drone from the front end in my 03 TrailBlazer LT about a week ago. 99% sure it's a wheel bearing (or 2) but I'm looking for some advice. Between August 2011 and October 2013 I've dropped about $4,000 to do various repairs and maintenance. Money is a little tight right now and I'm wondering if the community has any thoughts on how long I can put off replacing the wheel bearing(s)? I only drive the truck 6 to 8 thousand miles each year, so it's not a daily commuter or anything, but I don't want to do more damage by waiting too long. And while I'm thinking of it, are the bearings separate from the hub or do they come as an assembly?

It's around $70 for two hubs. If money is that tight, you should evaluate your finances.

This is the seller that a number of guys on ORTB have used:

[EBAY]310825241744[/EBAY]

It's easier just to pick the two of them up off ebay and swap out the hubs. Like a 15 minute job.

 

[xOgrex]

Thanks for the info Mikekey, I'll keep them in mind. I was expecting more along the lines of a $200+ each (which is about what the Delco part on Rockauto is listed at). That being said I did some Googling and found a thread on TruckForum.org with this:

Hello never posted on this site before but here is my experience with AM auto parts

My email to them
WHEEL BEARING FAILED AFTER 8,000 MILES WHAT KIND OF WARRANTY DOES THIS PART HAVE?

There response:
Our warranty is for the replacement of a defective part within 60 days of purchase. Electrical parts are only eligible for exchange. AM Autoparts should be notified as soon as possible if you have any need to return a part. If the order was placed more than 60 days ago, we are unable to offer a refund or a replacement.

I seen this thread and thaught i would put this out there. Purchased two front wheel bearings for a trailblazer on there two for a discount deal and so far both have failed with less than 10,000 miles and six months.

Also found complaints in regards to returns in general and about part failure shortly after warranty expiration on Reseller Ratings, Ripoff Report and other like sites including the nugget:

AVOID. Boston Better Business Bureau says the same thing.

I'm trying to avoid having to do it again in a couple of years so I'd rather spend a bit more on a quality part, but I also don't want to do more damage.

 

[CaptainXL]

I'm trying to avoid having to do it again in a couple of years so I'd rather spend a bit more on a quality part, but I also don't want to do more damage.

You see... this is the crux of your situation. It depends on how long you plan on keeping your vehicle before selling it. Will you get something cheap to last maybe 25k miles or get a set of Timken hubs that could last over 100k? This is assuming your tires, rims and suspension components along with alignment are in good repair which can contribute to premature hub failure.

 

[meerschm]

I think you can wait a while, as long as you don't go nuts. (assuming sane on-road use)

i have read they seldom fully quit, (letting the wheel fall off)

only thing that could happen if they get too bad is strange motion of the disk inside the brake caliper. could cause funny brake wear.

when I first had mine done, it thumped pretty good before I took it in. never other symptoms.

 

[BoldAdventure]

You see... this is the crux of your situation. It depends on how long you plan on keeping your vehicle before selling it. Will you get something cheap to last maybe 25k miles or get a set of Timken hubs that could last over 100k? This is assuming your tires, rims and suspension components along with alignment are in good repair which can contribute to premature hub failure.

Those Timken hubs don't last that long, says the experienced guys who wheel on ORTB.

 

[meerschm]

the off road guys beat em up more. they also should have more info on what happens if you drive too long with bad ones.

 

[IllogicTC]

I also have a bit of that drone, now that I think about it. I thought I was at 108-9k, but I'm actually a bit under 106k, but still probably original hub assemblies. I found a deal on 1A Auto where you can get ceramic pads, rotors, and hubs for like $150 (apparently it's $141 off normal price) but I can't vouch for any reliability since I've never used them. If you also need your front brakes done, replacing hubs would be a great time to do them and if that kit has any quality to it it'd be worth it.

Could also get a pair of hubs on there for just over $100 (again, I have no idea on quality), comes with 2-year warranty, or Timkens for just under $200 each. The mystery brand has some good reviews on the actual shipping and transaction, nobody's reported back for better or worse on the actual quality. I bet shopping around a bit more could yield different results.

Anyone have any experience shopping from them?

 

[CaptainXL]

Those Timken hubs don't last that long, says the experienced guys who wheel on ORTB.

Timken hubs are the best. Nothing lasts for long beating up your truck, skyjacking it, odd geometry or using it for purposes not intended or engineered. I have 140k miles on my truck and Timken was the OEM at the factory. Still work great.

 

[The_Roadie]

My experience is you can go 300-500 miles on a noisy one before the grinding noise gets to the point you think it's going to depart the vehicle. And then you can drive 20-50 miles to get back to pavement, and THEN change it or call for a tow.

[video=youtube;5VdjdI3qMms]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5VdjdI3qMms[/video]

[video=youtube;B_Q8Cmruxic]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B_Q8Cmruxic[/video]

 

[hockeyman]

Thanks for the info Mikekey, I'll keep them in mind. I was expecting more along the lines of a $200+ each (which is about what the Delco part on Rockauto is listed at).

Autozone has Timken Hubs listed for $184.99.

Timken hubs are the best.

↑ That ↑
Also, Timken Hubs come with a 3 year warranty (when purchased at autozone).

 

[Hypnotoad]

It's around $70 for two hubs. If money is that tight, you should evaluate your finances.

This is the seller that a number of guys on ORTB have used:

[EBAY]310825241744[/EBAY]

It's easier just to pick the two of them up off ebay and swap out the hubs. Like a 15 minute job.

Took me longer than 15 minutes...

 

[BoldAdventure]

Took me longer than 15 minutes...

Sorry, I have impact tools. I forget that makes things two times easier. And knowing what you are doing helps.

 

[Sparky]

How long is kind of dependent on mines and how bad the drone is. If it is droning just a little you're probably OK for a while. If it is howling pretty good then don't drive it much!

Mine was a low-level but annoying drone for a few hundred miles until I figured it out and fixed it. It was still tight other than the noise. 130k on it I think it was.

I've since replaced both sides but haven't touched them for 50k+ miles. Timkens.

 

[DJones]

I let one of mine go too long and I drove cycloptically about ten miles one day at 10 MPH. It left major wear on my brake pads and rotor, which is still evident to this day. I should have just called a flatbed or replaced it in the parking lot.

 

[xOgrex]

Thanks for all the feedback everyone. I should have been a little more specific as to the time frame: I was just looking to put things off till April when the weather starts to warm up which would equate to about 3,000 miles and I could then pay cash for the parts (instead of using plastic). The noise isn't loud, it just irritates me. I'm the type of person who once I hear something I can't stop hearing it so it's more annoying than anything.

As for getting rid of the truck, they can take it when I'm dead.

 

[hockeyman]

ThI'm the type of person who once I hear something I can't stop hearing it so it's more annoying than anything.

I'm the same way. I have a passenger side outer tie rod and two lower ball joints that have slight movement in them, and I honestly do not want to drive it much until they're fixed. I'd like to wait until spring to repair everything, but because of safety issues, I'm going to do it much sooner than that. I ordered all of the parts already and they're due to arrive later this week. Once they're here, it's only a matter of time before I suit-up and get to work. Cold (weather) or not.

God-forbid something bad is to happen to known faulty parts when I'm driving, I don't want to look back and ask myself, "why the **** did I wait so damn long??"
I know that many here have driven quite a distance on a bad wheel bearing. Personally though, I do not wish to walk that line unless it's an absolute necessity and/or emergency. This is also the reason why I do not wish to buy essential parts that are cheap crap.

Regret lasts much longer than the change of seasons.

Just my two pennies...

 

[Sparky]

3000 miles? Could be a bit much, but that all depends on the bearing. Sometimes they'll get a funny worn spot that causes noise but not any faster wear, so all is OK for quite a while. Other times they eat themselves up in a few hundred miles or less. Rather unpredictable really.

Guess you can give it a go and just keep an ear on it. But I would only do so very cautiously. If it were me I'd be getting a new bearing for that side and first chance I had on a little warmer day I'd replace it.

 

[IllogicTC]

Maybe there's some way to gauge this, like raising the wheel in question once per week and checking play or something? Any noticeable changes in noise or a more-than-small increase in the play could be an indicator that this job needs expedited if possible. I'm not saying to do this to try maximizing how long that hub lasts, but to try getting some sort of metric on the potential for failure. It'd be nicer to at least see it coming sooner if it's coming sooner.

 

[Hypnotoad]

I think you're just going to have to roll the dice and see if it lasts.

It can lead to other problems though. Like wearing on your brakes and tires.

 

[Playsinsnow]

Thanks for all the feedback everyone. I should have been a little more specific as to the time frame: I wlls just looking to put things off till April when the weather starts to warm up which would equate to about 3,000 miles and I could then pay cash for the parts (instead of using plastic). The noise isn't loud, it just irritates me. I'm the type of person who once I hear something I can't stop hearing it so it's more annoying than anything.

As for getting rid of the truck, they can take it when I'm dead.

From what I have read you will hear a loud "train" like moan/groan/sound when driving. You could do the figure 8 test but I would just replace both. All steering and suspension parts that come in pairs should be replaced in pairs.

Park it and buy the Timkens asap. If it's not too loud you may just have great hearing. (Mine is horrible) It will make plenty of noise before it falls off, so how loud is it? You're probably fine but who wants to say you'll be good when you may crash tomorrow?


As far as "play" goes these stock hubs hold up pretty tight and have minimal play when they grind and make the reported train sound. Search the trailvoy.con site.

 

[Tofer76]

I just replaced mine on the pass. side , took about an hour ( took my time and did a inspection of other thing) got it on ebay for 40 bucks w a 1 year warranty ,

 

[IllogicTC]

I just replaced mine on the pass. side , took about an hour ( took my time and did a inspection of other thing) got it on ebay for 40 bucks w a 1 year warranty ,

At 40 bucks you may end up taking them up on that 1 year warranty sounds like the so-called "CCC" to me, but only time tells. But when you're on a budget whatever will at get you through to a proper fix is better than rolling with broken parts.

 

[kickass audio]

As previously said I would replace both. I have one from carquest and another from advance auto (blah im done with their garbage). I first thought it was my driver front bearing that was bad because when I made right turns it got louder and usually whichever way you turn the wheel, the opposite side is the one thats the culprit. Like if you turn right and its louder it usually means your left wheel bearing is the bad one as its under load. Well that was not the case for mine, my passenger side one was the one that was moaning. Its sometimes hard to detect with ours, I even had my dad drive my truck on sharp turns like doing 40 on the on and off ramps and had my head down at the floor to try and detect which side was making the most noise and it sounded like it was the drivers side. I checked for play and had absolutely 0 play except for the outer tie rods being shot which even after those were replaced I still had 0 play or drag on either wheel with the wheel mounted and off the ground. I replaced both and am just fine. One thing I noticed too is that when the bad hub was on the truck my ABS would kick on once in awhile for a second sometimes when coming to a stop, it has never done that after replacing the bearing assembly.

The only thing I did notice with both bearings is that with the wheel off and the bearing disconnected from the truck completely, if I spun it in my hand it had quite a bit of resistance to it and had a cracking sound to it, almost like you were chewing on pop rocks but when it was mounted with and without the tire attached it didn't make that noise and moved just fine.

 

[davenay67]

As previously said I would replace both. I have one from carquest and another from advance auto (blah im done with their garbage). I first thought it was my driver front bearing that was bad because when I made right turns it got louder aneod usually whichever way you turn the wheel, the opposite side is the one thats the culprit. Like if you turn right and its louder it usually means your left wheel bearing is the bad one as its under load. Well that was not the case for mine, my passenger side one was the one that was moaning. Its sometimes hard to detect with ours, I even had my dad drive my truck on sharp turns like doing 40 on the on and off ramps and had my head down at the floor to try and detect which side was making the most noise and it sounded like it was the drivers side. I checked for play and had absolutely 0 play except for the outer tie rods being shot which even after those were replaced I still had 0 play or drag on either wheel with the wheel mounted and off the ground. I replaced both and am just fine. One thing I noticed too is that when the bad hub was on the truck my ABS would kick on once in awhile for a second sometimes when coming to a stop, it has never done that after replacing the bearing assembly.

The only thing I did notice with both bearings is that with the wheel off and the bearing disconnected from the truck completely, if I spun it in my hand it had quite a bit of resistance to it and had a cracking sound to it, almost like you were chewing on pop rocks but when it was mounted with and without the tire attached it didn't make that noise and moved just fine.

I too made the same incorrect assumption when one of my wheel hub bearings started to go bad.

When the other wheel hub bearing started to go bad, time and money were tight and I decided to leave it for just a while until time and money were both in better supply again. My bearing went from grumbling to looking and sounding like the one Roadie posted in his video in an alarming short amount of time.

Not saying it's that way for everyone, but it certainly alarmed me when the wife came home one night and mentioned the car is making a funny noise. She never tells me about funny noises....I almost always end up asking her long it has been making this noise, to which her usual reply is "what noise?".

 

[Tofer76]

At 40 bucks you may end up taking them up on that 1 year warranty sounds like the so-called "CCC" to me, but only time tells. But when you're on a budget whatever will at get you through to a proper fix is better than rolling with broken parts.

Maybe but the one i put in my 3/4 ton truck that was 36 on ebay and its got 130000 miles on it so far .

 

[xOgrex]

OK, so I just had some time to watch the videos posted by Roadie and HOLY CRAP! I would never let it go to the point where it was that noisy as it would drive me bat shit insane! Right now it's just a rumbling that can be heard over the normal tire noise from inside the passenger compartment. I'll definitely get someone to drive while I listen to it but I don't think it can be heard outside the passenger compartment yet. The consensus seems to be that it shouldn't really be put off, but if I must put it off, monitor it constantly and replace it ASAP. I will replace both at the same time regardless and will probably go with the Timkens since many of you seem to feel they're a solid product. Gonna try and get in touch with an old co-worker who is still in the car business and see what price break he may be able to get me.

 

[Sparky]

I'll bet you'll be able to get the Timken part from Rock Auto or Amazon a heck of a lot cheaper than Autozone.

 

[The_Roadie]

OK, so I just had some time to watch the videos posted by Roadie and HOLY CRAP! I would never let it go to the point where it was that noisy as it would drive me bat shit insane!

The backstory is that was in the period I was out of work, but still going a few places, like when I got social media passes to SEMA (from my Trailvoy credentials). So I drove to Vegas and the bearing was rumbling. On the way home from SEMA, I was planning an offroad trip through Mojave just south of I-15, and about 50 miles into it, the rumbling got a LOT worse, but it took me a while to get back to pavement. At that point, it was cold and starting to drizzle, and I had a spare hub with me, but wasn't willing to change it unless I really, really had to. Distance from where I was to home was 220 miles. I get ONE free AAA tow up to 200 miles per year with my Premier membership (plus three 100 mile tows, and the Borrego desert is just 100 miles away). And there were no motels on that lonely stretch of I-15. Soooooo I limped along the freeway edge at 20-30 MPH downhill until I got to Barstow and a Motel 6. With AAA trip interruption insurance, AAA paid for the Motel 6 and two meals and I called AAA the next morning to get a free flatbed ride 170 miles to home. To make it easier on the flatbed, I got dropped off in the street and only had to drive down my 1000 ft. driveway, where I took the videos.

But yes, the last couple of miles before I got to the Motel 6 in Barstow were indeed that loose and I worried every foot that the tire was going to flop off.

 

[dla442]

Autozone has Timken Hubs listed for $184.99.



↑ That ↑
Also, Timken Hubs come with a 3 year warranty (when purchased at autozone).

I just replaced with timkens from autozone....work fine and no worries with good warranty

 

[cxkali]

I am having the same problem what else should be replaced when changing out the hub assembly, Im also changing the upper ball joints while I have the tire off

 

[CaptainXL]

I'll bet you'll be able to get the Timken part from Rock Auto or Amazon a heck of a lot cheaper than Autozone.

Amazon.com: Timken 513188 Axle Bearing and Hub Assembly: Automotive

Oh yes. Much cheaper on Amazon. These were $160 a few months ago. Price is going down.

I wouldn't beat myself up if I payed more at a retailer like Autozone. Just use an online coupon. The exchange warranty might be better and the coupon might bring it within $20 compared to Amazon. Amazon is the most competitive these days. They are just spanking a lot of stores. I go to the dealer every once in a while to get a part and ask them to lower their price closer too or matching Amazon's. With shipping added of course. It works most of the time. Plus the dealer has lifetime warranties on many professional or original equipment parts.

 

[kickass audio]

I can't say for sure what you should replace with the hubs. Check your ball joints and tie rods while you're at it. My bearings and outer tie rod's died at 100k miles so it isn't bad considering how horrible the roads are around WNY. Friggin pot hole central. lol.

I would recommend taking a wire brush to both sides of the dust shield while its off so you can clean it up before putting it back on. Try to not bend it as if its bent, it will rub on your rotors and annoy you with that scraping noise.

I put some never seize on the 3 bolts that secure the hub to the truck and some never seize on the splines of the CV shaft that go into the hub assembly. It is such an easy job that if you never did one before it would take you maybe 45 mins for the first one and like 20 for the second once you learn what you need to do. Getting the 3 bolts off that hold the bearing on are sometimes hard to get to but I used my kobalt thru socket set that my dad got me years ago and it fits in there perfectly and I didn't have to turn the wheel to get to any of the bolts. :wootwoot:

 

[cxkali]

I just picked up my Timken hub assembly from autozone for 159.99 they price matched the oreilly part just so you guys know. if you don't wanna wait to have it shipped.

 

[meerschm]

The obvious item to look at is the brakes. you have them pretty much apart. if they are worn, pitted, or otherwise in sad shape, you could swap out the old for new and be good to go for a while.

 

[kickass audio]

I feel dumb for not saying the brakes too. lol. I always take for granted that every time I rip off my wheel I always inspect the brakes and rotors. sorry about that.

 

[meerschm]

I would put a little locktite (hand-tool strength) on the three mounting bolts. really do not want them to come loose on the road.

spline shaft gets anti-sieze or grease.

 

[Steeda]

Just popping in to add my unsolicited experience:

I replaced the Right Front with a Timken- 40,000 miles it's groaning.

Left front was also replaced with a Timken- lasted about the same mileage- replaced that one about 3500 miles ago.

I'll take the chance on the Ebay set- Although AMAZON.com has Timken for 147 a pop right now if you must have it.

 

[glfredrick]

Just popping in to add my unsolicited experience:

I replaced the Right Front with a Timken- 40,000 miles it's groaning.

Left front was also replaced with a Timken- lasted about the same mileage- replaced that one about 3500 miles ago.

I'll take the chance on the Ebay set- Although AMAZON.com has Timken for 147 a pop right now if you must have it.

I went through 5 of the cheaper versions (tried to find the best ones possible) before switching over to Timkens. Quality of Timken is evident right out of the box. Even got my ABS working right again.

I was swapping the factory ABS sensors into the new (cheap) hubs as they failed, but eventually even that did not work. I generally got less than 2-3 months of use from those imorted sensors and less than a year life from the hubs themselves. Not doing anything special with the truck either, my wife drives it to work...