09 TB...I have the old rack out and am ready to install the new one. I've read some individuals experience problems with the steering afterwards....I've already been warned about making sure the seals are in place on the new rack's pressure lines....any other tips?
Steering Rack install
- Thread starter retiredcopper
- Start date
Do 20 turns left to right, end to end, with the engine off, front end still in the air.
Do the same thing again, this time with the engine on.
Thats about the only thing I can think of.
Do the same thing again, this time with the engine on.
Thats about the only thing I can think of.
I just replaced the entire steering system (except the PS pump) along with the front suspension and sway bar bushings and end links 2 weeks ago. Had the 02 Envoy on jack stands for 2 weekends to do it all myself.
For the steering rack
1) Make sure the new seals are properly seated in the new steering rack. I used a small socket as a set punch and lightly tapped them into place. Don’t just set them in there - they need to be seated. You’ll see the seating surface on the inside of each port. Tap them in so they click into place.
2) I used a bungee to hold the steering wheel in the center. Then I put a screw driver in the bolt hole of the lower intermediate shaft and pulled down on it to extend it all the way to the limit stop. That way when I put the new rack up into place the parts mated up properly.
3) Be careful with the rubber boot that covers the intermediate steering shaft. There is a metal ring that sits in a groove around the bottom. Make sure this is in place before snapping the boot down over the new rack - ask me how I know…
4) I used a floor jack to slowly guide the new rack up into place - had to do a little twisting to get the steering linkage up into the boot and intermediate shaft. If you have helpers, may not be as bad for you.
5) The new rack into the frame mounts is a little snug - the floor jack helped me with that instead of trying to jam it into place by hand.
6) Make sure you torque everything to spec and mark the fasteners with Sharpie or something afterward to indicate you torqued them and to visually check after some miles to see if anything loosened up.
7) Like another person said, after everything is installed and torqued, slowly move the steering wheel about 1 full turn each direction with the serpentine belt removed from the PS pump pulley. I had a helper do this while I slowly turned the PS pump with a drill and hex socket. I made sure there was always fluid in the pump. Once I had the majority of the bubbles out and the fluid was staying constant in the pump, I put the belt back on and started the engine. Then I repeated the 1 turn each way until the rest of the air bubbles worked their way out. Note - I left the cap loose when doing this.
8) I eyeballed and used a tape measure and angle gauge to set the alignment as best as I could when attaching the new tie rod ends. The steering wheel ended up crooked but I was only a few miles from the shop to get alignment done.
9) Don’t forget to torque everything and double check, and make sure the air is out of the system.
Morning...Thanks for the very detailed install ,but I need to pick your brain again... I read yesterday that the rack should be "centered" before install...sound familiar?....TIA
The rack should be centered so that just as much should be sticking out on each side or according to the number of turns of the pinion. In other words, if it does 4 turns to go from side to side, at 2 turns, it should be centered. The whole assembly is centered by the mounting bolts.
Moose,I did the fuel pump last month,thinking it was going to be a cluster,but it's running...I'll get this squared away too.....Thanks for the input....stay safe!