Tearing the front suspension apart this weekend

[reedtchsrv]

So I have a squeak in the front end of my truck while turning and going over a bump. Last weekend, I replaced the stabilizer bar bushings and end links. Looking around with the tire off, I decided that I should replace my ball joints at some point since the boots were cracked. When I started driving it on Monday, the squeak was still there. (Before anyone asks, I did monkey with the hood bumpers and it was not them.) Given the chance to spend three days on the forums, I decided that I would shoot this squirrel with a 12ga at a distance of two feet.
So here's what I have showing up this week so far:
Lower Control Arms
Lower Ball Joints
Upper Control Arms
Upper Ball Joints
Quick Struts
Hub Assemblies
Brake Shields
Since I'm saving a bunch of labor money, I decided to buy some stuff that I will probably never use again, but who doesn't want more tools?:
35mm Impact Socket
Pickle Fork Set
Air Hammer
Ball Joint Press Kit
Already in the garage:
Torque Wrenches
Pitman Puller
Impact Sockets
Air Wrench
Air Ratchet
Big Hammers
Big Pipe

The questions are:
Should I be replacing anything else while I have the whole dang thing torn apart?
Should I buy more tools?

(BTW: If you find this post on the OS, ignore it. I was flipping back and forth during my reserch and posted on the wrong one. )

 

[The_Roadie]

View attachment 33262

 

[reedtchsrv]

I thought that part was a given.

 

[Playsinsnow]

I would be sure to research the part brands and not cheap out. May make your problem worse.


Strut mounts have been know to squeak. Check to see if they come with your quickstrut.

 

[reedtchsrv]

Excellent points. The struts are supposed to come with the mounts, but I ordered them anyway. Amazon will take anything back. I purchased the Dorman arms based on research here and the os. The hubs are GMB. Good reviews on Amazon. Upper ball joints are Moog. Strut assemblies are Monroe. I've seen others buy stuff from ebay, buy that just feels shady for suspension stuff.

 

[Playsinsnow]

Timkens are the hubs most folks around here use.

 

[reedtchsrv]

Now you're scaring me. There is a significant price difference between the GMB and the Timkins. I may have to rethink that item.

 

[reedtchsrv]

OK. Talked it over with the wife. We went back and forth over the pros and cons of "possible violent death" and "a smooth safe ride." Finally settled on "a smooth safe ride." Timkens are on the way. Thanks for the advice.

 

[Playsinsnow]

GMB



They started making hubs in 2008. Some reviews say it's not terrible. Maybe be the guinea pig for GMTnation on this one? Timken's ftw though.

 

[IllogicTC]

GMB



They started making hubs in 2008. Some reviews say it's not terrible. Maybe be the guinea pig for GMTnation on this one? Timken's ftw though.

Only time tells, eh? They've been around the universal joint business for over 30 years though. I know they're a world apart, but experience with bearings in general could be a great help to their wheel hub assembly design

 

[The_Roadie]

Finally settled on "a smooth safe ride."

I've been a firm advocate for years about my mod budget isn't being spent on mere toys. These are VITAL SAFETY ENHANCEMENTS, honey! For when I hang my sorry ass out over a 4000 foot Sierra Nevada dropoff to certain death, I need good tires.

 

[smokey262]

Some PB Blaster or Kroil would be good. Some anti-seize lubricant. Maybe tie rod ends too then you ought to be good to go

Watch the videos here and on youtube. A couple good ones exist

 

[reedtchsrv]

Thanks for all of the advice. I was just kidding about the wife conversation. As soon as the flag was thrown on the GMB, the Timkens were on order. My wife's only role is to shut up and serve me. (She's not a forum member, so I will live to see another day after that comment.)

Not to hijack my own thread, but I would like to see an anti-seize yes/no chart for everything threaded connection on the truck. I know that's not going to happen, but it's amazing how many conflicting opinions there are on the forums.

 

[The_Roadie]

... it's amazing how many conflicting opinions there are on the forums.

We have a forum rule, like many others, to not discuss politics or religion. So we fight it out by proxy in the arenas of the use of anti-seize, oil change intervals, and lift it/lower it.

 

[TollKeeper]

And brands of oil, and red wires, and search engines.

 

[DJones]

I've used GMB hubs. I toasted two, and a third had the bearings fall out of it.

 

[Texan]

Not to hijack my own thread, but I would like to see an anti-seize yes/no chart for everything threaded connection on the truck. I know that's not going to happen, but it's amazing how many conflicting opinions there are on the forums.

As a old time shade tree mechanic, the first time I ran across "anti-seize", it was used for installing
spark plugs in aluminum heads, to prevent seizure when next removed. As a retired engineer I can
say that "anti-seize" is used on studs and nuts in high temperature piping flanges.

 

[reedtchsrv]

I'm an engineer in an industry that builds stainless steel equipment. Stainless hardware needs to have anti-seize applied to threads before using impact tools or galling will occur.

Thanks for the GMB update. I'm definitely installing the Timkens.

 

[smokey262]

I use anti-sieze on anything that has to be disassembled again and subject to corrosive agents like road salt, or where galling can occur, be it threads, press fits, slip fits, etc.

 

[strat81]

The questions are:
Should I be replacing anything else while I have the whole dang thing torn apart?
Should I buy more tools?

(BTW: If you find this post on the OS, ignore it. I was flipping back and forth during my reserch and posted on the wrong one. )

Tie rod ends?
Brake pads?
Rotors?

 

[reedtchsrv]

I did the brakes and rotors in January. I've been tossing the tie rod ends around in my head. Especially since I'll need an alignment anyway when I'm finished.

 

[dla442]

Squeak at low mph could be control arm bushing...had it..done it..squeak gone. Just curious..why replace parts when not bad yet or signs of wear? Struts..yea do the whole shebang so you don't have to go back for the bearing later. Anywho not my $$$$...look at the control arm

 

[reedtchsrv]

I tend to let little annoyances build up until I can't stand them anymore. Again, I decided to hunt a squirrel with a shotgun. I want to make sure that nothing is left. My truck is ten years old and I've owned it for 6 of those years. I don't want to replace a lower arm this weekend and an upper next weekend. If I'm dedicating the time to tear something half-apart, I'm going to tear it all the way apart and replace everything. Then I will sit on the deck, drink a beer and forget about it for another six years. Also, I figure that if I do it myself, I'm saving the cost of parts in labor. That lets me get a few new tools and still screw the system.

 

[reedtchsrv]

Night one. Passenger side taken apart (minus the lower arm mount) and upper arm and strut installed. Beer overcame motivation, so I will begin again in the morning.View attachment 33347

 

[reedtchsrv]

Just finished the (around my subdivision) test drive. I win! Everything works! I keep standing in the driveway pointing at the truck and saying "Who's the captain now?" and "F you science." Five imaginary dollars for the movies the quotes are from. I had to switch to movie quotes because neither the wife nor the dogs apparently knew "who's da man?" Rain and snow expected for the next few days, so the TB will rest in the driveway until I can get an alignment. This is the first time that I went that deep into the suspension, so I just want to let out a "Hell yeah!"

 

[reedtchsrv]

Just came from the stealership and my alignment. I managed to put everything back together within spec with the exception of the left toe.

Before anyone takes a swing at me. I decided to go there because I've heard stories of too many places saying that the TB doesn't have a camber adjustment. I know for a fact that I almost dropped the camber adjustment item on my face on Saturday. They were the same price as everyone else, so my only fear was them "finding" something else to charge me for. They didn't.

I give myself an A+ for my first front suspension job. :wootwoot:

 

[Scottie12701]

Looking good ! I am doing the same thing on my 2002 TB plus the rear shocks, springs, sway bar links, diff and transfer case fluids. This might be too late but did you consider the sway bar bushings?
So now ill add a question I used mostly AC Delco parts and the sway bar links only came with 1 washer, I have searched and found nothing on were it goes top, bottom, garbage?

 

[davenay67]

Congrats on getting the job done.

I have a question for the group....is this 'official' jacking points for a TB for this kind of work..??
I only ask because I tend to use the cut-outs in the frame, the ones that roughly line up with the leading edge of the front doors.

Night one. Passenger side taken apart (minus the lower arm mount) and upper arm and strut installed. Beer overcame motivation, so I will begin again in the morning.View attachment 20862

 

[reedtchsrv]

I put my washers on the bottom rear.

I was waiting to see if someone was going to ask about the jack stands. l have a front hitch receiver so I put the stands under that for this project. Normally I put them where the front lower control arm bolts are, but that wasn't possible for this one.

 

[mudlight2]

I hope you dont mind. But id like to ask a question here instead of start a whole nother thread. I will be doing the same thing soon. And then some. For anyone who knows. With the tierods. SHould I count threads. What is the easist way to keep all this stuff aligned? Of course I will still get an alignment afterwards. But do i just take apart and put it back together?

 

[The_Roadie]

You can count threads as long as the tie rod brands are the same. Otherwise take good measurements. To fine tune it for the drive to the alignment shop, put the weight back on the tires, and take a long 6-8' straight edge and hold it against the tire at the 9 and 3 o'clock positions. Adjust one side or the other (ignore wheel centering for this process) so they are as perfectly parallel fore and aft as possible.

 

[mudlight2]

OK well the rod brands will not be the same. So where should I measure to and from. another thing. When I put the weight on the tires. and checking out the 9 and 3 to adjust I would adjust the tierod correct? Also Is it possible to put it back together in a way I couldnt drive it to get aligned? I am mechanically inclined. But this will be my biggest driveway job yet. I may be worrying to much about the aligning of it. I dunno.

 

[The_Roadie]

Measure the number of exposed threads on the outer tie rod end. Also make sure you don't have worn INNER tie rod ends. I have a youtube video. Or measure from the end of the ball joint (where the shaft goes through the steering knuckle) to the end of the inner tie rod end. Matter of fact there are MANY youtube videos of this entire process on other vehicles.

You can mess up toe-in to the point it's dangerously squirrely to drive. And you'll be scrubbing your tires like the vehicle is cross-eyed. All depends on how long a drive you have to the alignment shop. 2 miles or 20.

Yes, you adjust the tie rod end. But when you're initially putting it together, you just spin the outer tie rod end until it's close, into the inner tie rod end. Then you put the tapered chaft into the steering knuckle and tightenen the nut. To adjust the toe-in at this stage, since you can't rotate the outer tie rod end anymore, is to have the jam nut loose, then you have to rotate the INNER tie rod end to lengthen or shorten the assembly. Again, if you're not clear on the theory, watch videos or read up on web tutorials that are all out there and easy to find in a search.