benjaminblazer
Member
NEED HELP Traction Control Repair Light
- Thread starter benjaminblazer
- Start date
flyboy2610
Member
My wife's '06 TB does the same thing during the winter. Never happens during the other three seasons. We never have been able to figure out what the problem is.
benjaminblazer
Member
Gotcha, yeah sometimes when the ground wet or sometimes just random even when it’s dry, but then i’ll turn it off and back on it goes away
If there is no ABS light on, it's the steering angle sensor. It's the only component that is only for the Stabilitrak. Mine also randomly comes on, especially when it's cold. I just turn the key to the Start position to cancel it.
flyboy2610
Member
benjaminblazer
Member
Looked up a video, right under the dash, doesn’t look too bad to change, just alot of screws to keep track of.
One other Question: If a Reduced Power Event occurs (which ordinarily disables the StabilTrack and Cruise Control Systems) will that particular Dashboard Light also Glow as a result?
These Two Videos are On Topic... Yeah... they cover the Trailblazer SS Vehicles... BUT they are still Interesting as another angle for understanding the issue:
And here is the 2006-2008 GM TSB on the StabiliTrak Issues:
#08-05-25-005: Intermittent StabiliTrak Indicator Light Blinking, StabiliTrak Active Message Displayed, DTC C0196 Set (Reprogram Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM)) - (Oct 1, 2008)
Subject: Intermittent StabiliTrak® Indicator Light Blinking, StabiliTrak® Active Message Displayed, DTC C0196 Set (Reprogram Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM))
Models: 2006-2007 Buick Rainier
2006-2009 Chevrolet TrailBlazer Models
2006-2009 GMC Envoy Models
2006-2009 Saab 9-7X
2006-2009 Isuzu Ascender Models
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
This bulletin provides information on two different conditions.
Condition #1
Some customers may comment on a Service StabiliTrak® indicator light along with a Service StabiliTrak® message displayed in the DIC. Upon investigation, the technician may find DTC C0196 set in history.
Condition #2
Some customers may comment on a blinking StabiliTrak® indicator light along with a StabiliTrak Active message displayed in the DIC during normal driving conditions. No DTCs will be found with this concern.
Cause
This condition may be caused by a software anomaly within the electronic brake control module (EBCM) that allowed the yaw offset to be falsely learned.
Correction
Do This
Don't Do This
Reprogram the EBCM.
Do not replace the yaw sensor or EBCM for this condition.
Important: From the controller list, select "VSES Vehicle Stability Enhancement System Control Module."
If routine diagnosis using SI does not reveal any obvious cause, reprogram the EBCM using SPS with the latest software available on TIS2WEB. Refer to the Service Programming System (SPS) procedures in SI. As always, make sure your Tech 2® is updated with the latest software version.
Warranty Information (excluding Saab U.S. Models)
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time
H2508
Electronic Brake and/or Traction Control Module Reprogramming with SPS
Use Published Labor Operation Time
Warranty Information (Saab U.S. Models)
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation
Description
Failed Object
Fault/Reason Code
Location Code
Warranty Type
Repair/Action Code
Labor Time
1002003
Electronic Brake and/or Traction Control Module Reprogramming with SPS
52160
79
0
01
05
Use Published Labor Operation Time
GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.
And here is the 2006-2008 GM TSB on the StabiliTrak Issues:
#08-05-25-005: Intermittent StabiliTrak Indicator Light Blinking, StabiliTrak Active Message Displayed, DTC C0196 Set (Reprogram Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM)) - (Oct 1, 2008)
Subject: Intermittent StabiliTrak® Indicator Light Blinking, StabiliTrak® Active Message Displayed, DTC C0196 Set (Reprogram Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM))
Models: 2006-2007 Buick Rainier
2006-2009 Chevrolet TrailBlazer Models
2006-2009 GMC Envoy Models
2006-2009 Saab 9-7X
2006-2009 Isuzu Ascender Models
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
This bulletin provides information on two different conditions.
Condition #1
Some customers may comment on a Service StabiliTrak® indicator light along with a Service StabiliTrak® message displayed in the DIC. Upon investigation, the technician may find DTC C0196 set in history.
Condition #2
Some customers may comment on a blinking StabiliTrak® indicator light along with a StabiliTrak Active message displayed in the DIC during normal driving conditions. No DTCs will be found with this concern.
Cause
This condition may be caused by a software anomaly within the electronic brake control module (EBCM) that allowed the yaw offset to be falsely learned.
Correction
Do This
Don't Do This
Reprogram the EBCM.
Do not replace the yaw sensor or EBCM for this condition.
Important: From the controller list, select "VSES Vehicle Stability Enhancement System Control Module."
If routine diagnosis using SI does not reveal any obvious cause, reprogram the EBCM using SPS with the latest software available on TIS2WEB. Refer to the Service Programming System (SPS) procedures in SI. As always, make sure your Tech 2® is updated with the latest software version.
Warranty Information (excluding Saab U.S. Models)
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time
H2508
Electronic Brake and/or Traction Control Module Reprogramming with SPS
Use Published Labor Operation Time
Warranty Information (Saab U.S. Models)
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation
Description
Failed Object
Fault/Reason Code
Location Code
Warranty Type
Repair/Action Code
Labor Time
1002003
Electronic Brake and/or Traction Control Module Reprogramming with SPS
52160
79
0
01
05
Use Published Labor Operation Time
GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.
Last edited:
This is another Thread that is more in the Expertise Wheel House of our SME ... @TJBaker57 that is also on topic as one Member mentions therein using this technique to diagnose his StabiliTrak Warning Light Issues:
gmtnation.com
How to Read ABS/TCCM/PCM Codes Using a Terminal OBDii Interface
Summary: How to Read ABS/TCCM/PCM Codes Using a Terminal OBDii Interface Difficulty: Easy (mechanically), but medium computer skills are required Estimated Time: 30 minutes for first time, 10 minutes subsequent times Tools Required: Personal computer with Windows 7 (or ability to adapt...
gmtnation.com
Ultimately I believe this is the result of an electrical connection where oxidation and/or looseness is the primary cause. But, that didn't help one bit. I once found a surging speedometer due to an oil leak compromising a wheel sensor. WTF was that?
What to do? As a practice, whenever I'm working on something I always remove connectors (if I can) and treat them in a way that establishes a good connection and prevents further oxidation. I recommend we just blindly do it - always if it's reasonable.
The only problem is it's hard to identify the problems you don't have - as it is as hard to identify exactly what is happening here.
Somewhere in the system (CAN h/l?) there is at least one connection teetering between good and not, that it's likely a tiny phenomena influence by environmental conditions.
What to do? As a practice, whenever I'm working on something I always remove connectors (if I can) and treat them in a way that establishes a good connection and prevents further oxidation. I recommend we just blindly do it - always if it's reasonable.
The only problem is it's hard to identify the problems you don't have - as it is as hard to identify exactly what is happening here.
Somewhere in the system (CAN h/l?) there is at least one connection teetering between good and not, that it's likely a tiny phenomena influence by environmental conditions.
It follows on that it is just such an "Environmental Condition" being the ultimate arbiter when it comes to "Rust Jacking" underneath the Mild, Alternating Current Generation that is produced in the calculated gap in between the Tone Rings inside of the Wheel Hubs and the undersides of the Plastic Wheel Speed *Sensors*
This is a Misnomer for sure since there are Micro-Coils of Fine Copper Wire and Magnets behaving as A/C Electrical Sine Wave signal generators as the Ring Teeth pass underneath them changing their Frequency as the Wheels speed up above 3-5 MPH... or slow down. This is arguably the Best Diagnostic and Repair Video ever done on this topic and truly Spot-On for the GMT360 Platform:
This is a Misnomer for sure since there are Micro-Coils of Fine Copper Wire and Magnets behaving as A/C Electrical Sine Wave signal generators as the Ring Teeth pass underneath them changing their Frequency as the Wheels speed up above 3-5 MPH... or slow down. This is arguably the Best Diagnostic and Repair Video ever done on this topic and truly Spot-On for the GMT360 Platform:
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In this instance, maybe not. As per the TSB posted, it could be a software update to fix this. I should do it to mine as I get the occasional light for this, especially when it's really cold. My only problem is that it was posted in late 2008 and Tis2000 may not have been updated with it as it may have been its last update before being retired. And I don't know if they fixed the issues with Online TDS and the Tech 2 as a passthrough.
benjaminblazer
Member
I know this thread is super old but I finally got the time to replace the steering wheel position sensor... well after doing so, the traction control and repair light come on every single time I turn the car on, almost like I either got a bad one out of the box, or wiring on it went after I replaced it?
I queried my Off Line *GPT4ALL* AI using the more exotic LLM called "DeepSeek-R1-Qwen-14B" ... A Large Language Model with a fairly robust Machine Learned Knowledge Corpus, just to see if there might be an additional *Nugget* of a Diagnostic Suggestion.
*IT* responded as follows...(Noting that you might need a Higher End Bi-Directional Scan Tool for some of these suggestions). You will observe that ALL of the AI's "Thinking" behind these suggestions are completely revealed (Known as "Chain Of Thought" Reasoning) ...like *IT's* Inner Voice is Narrating what it provides... and how it arrived at these ideas by "Thoroughly THINKING Things Through...":
Prompt: This request for assistance involves a 2006 Chevrolet Trailblazer with the 4.2L In Line 6 Cylinder Engine: I know this thread is super old but I finally got the time to replace the steering wheel position sensor... well after doing so, the traction control and repair light come on every single time I turn the car on, almost like I either got a bad one out of the box, or wiring on it went after I replaced it?
Response: Okay, so I just replaced the steering wheel position sensor on my 2006 Chevrolet Trailblazer with a 4.2L Inline-6 engine. Now every time I start the car, the traction control and repair lights come on. Hmm, that's frustrating because it feels like either the new part is bad or something went wrong during installation.
First off, maybe I got a faulty sensor from the store. But how would I know? Maybe I should check if the old one was working before swapping it out. Wait, no, the problem started after replacing it, so perhaps the new one isn't compatible or defective. Or maybe there's an issue with the wiring harness when I took it apart.
I remember reading somewhere that these sensors are part of the stability control system and they communicate with other modules like the ABS or ECU. So if the sensor is off, those systems might not work correctly, triggering the lights. But why would replacing one component cause multiple issues?
Let me think about possible causes:
1. **Bad Sensor**: The new steering wheel position sensor could be faulty. Maybe I should test it with a multi-meter to see if it's sending proper signals.
2. **Wiring Issues**: When I took out the old sensor, did I maybe damage any wires or connectors? It would help to double-check all connections and look for frayed wires.
3. **Communication Error**: The sensors in cars often use CAN bus communication. If there was a disruption during installation, like disconnecting something without proper protocol, it might have messed up the network. Maybe I need to reset the modules or relearn them using an OBD-II scanner.
4. **Ground Issues**: Sometimes, poor grounding can cause electrical problems. I should check if all ground connections are solid and not corroded.
5. **Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Issue**: If replacing the sensor didn't fix things, maybe the PCM needs a relearn procedure or even replacement.
6. **Corrosion or Moisture**: Did any moisture get into the connectors? That could cause intermittent issues with communication.
7. **Other Fault Codes**: Maybe there are other codes besides P0528 (steering angle sensor). I should use an OBD-II scanner to check for more DTCs and see if they can be cleared or need attention.
I think my next steps would be:
- Use a scan tool to read all fault codes. If it's only the steering wheel position sensor, maybe that's isolated. But traction control issues might point elsewhere.
- Check all wiring connections around where I worked on—the steering column and under the dash area for any signs of damage or corrosion.
- Test the new sensor with a multi-meter to ensure it's functioning correctly compared to specifications.
- If everything seems okay, maybe try relearning the stability control system through the scan tool. Some GM vehicles require this after certain repairs.
If none of that works, I might have to consider replacing other components like the ABS module or PCM, but those are more involved and expensive.
**************************************************************************
The issue with your 2006 Chevrolet Trailblazer's traction control and repair lights coming on after replacing the steering wheel position sensor could be due to several factors. Here is a structured approach to diagnose and potentially resolve the problem:
### Possible Causes:
1. **Faulty Sensor**: The new steering wheel position sensor might be defective.
2. **Wiring Issues**: Damage or corrosion in the wiring harness during installation.
3. **Communication Error**: Disruption of CAN bus communication due to improper protocol use during repair.
4. **Grounding Problems**: Poor grounding leading to electrical issues.
5. **PCM Issue**: The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) might need relearning or replacement.
6. **Corrosion/Moisture**: Moisture ingress affecting connectors.
### Next Steps:
1. **Scan for Fault Codes**:
- Use an OBD-II scanner to read all DTCs, not just P0528. Look for additional codes related to traction control or other systems.
2. **Inspect Wiring and Connections**:
- Check the wiring harness around the steering column and under the dashboard for damage or corrosion.
3. **Test the Sensor**:
- Use a multi-meter to verify the new sensor's functionality against specifications.
4. **Relearn Stability Control System**:
- If necessary, use a scan tool to relearn the stability control system as per GM protocols.
5. **Check for Other Issues**:
- Ensure there are no other underlying issues like corrosion or moisture affecting components.
### Conclusion:
If these steps don't resolve the issue, consider more involved solutions such as replacing the ABS module or PCM. However, start with simpler diagnostics to isolate and address the root cause before proceeding to more complex repairs.
Hope This Helps...
PS... Nomic's *GPT4ALL* is a FREE Locally Installed, Privacy Focused Artificial Intelligence that allows for using a PRIVATE LLM completely Off Line and without any costs for Tokens. Find it Here for FREE Download, Installation and use a Variety of available Ollama Based LLMs (Large Language Models) that suit your own Windows, MAC-OS or Linux OS Based Computer Hardware:
www.nomic.ai
*IT* responded as follows...(Noting that you might need a Higher End Bi-Directional Scan Tool for some of these suggestions). You will observe that ALL of the AI's "Thinking" behind these suggestions are completely revealed (Known as "Chain Of Thought" Reasoning) ...like *IT's* Inner Voice is Narrating what it provides... and how it arrived at these ideas by "Thoroughly THINKING Things Through...":
Prompt: This request for assistance involves a 2006 Chevrolet Trailblazer with the 4.2L In Line 6 Cylinder Engine: I know this thread is super old but I finally got the time to replace the steering wheel position sensor... well after doing so, the traction control and repair light come on every single time I turn the car on, almost like I either got a bad one out of the box, or wiring on it went after I replaced it?
Response: Okay, so I just replaced the steering wheel position sensor on my 2006 Chevrolet Trailblazer with a 4.2L Inline-6 engine. Now every time I start the car, the traction control and repair lights come on. Hmm, that's frustrating because it feels like either the new part is bad or something went wrong during installation.
First off, maybe I got a faulty sensor from the store. But how would I know? Maybe I should check if the old one was working before swapping it out. Wait, no, the problem started after replacing it, so perhaps the new one isn't compatible or defective. Or maybe there's an issue with the wiring harness when I took it apart.
I remember reading somewhere that these sensors are part of the stability control system and they communicate with other modules like the ABS or ECU. So if the sensor is off, those systems might not work correctly, triggering the lights. But why would replacing one component cause multiple issues?
Let me think about possible causes:
1. **Bad Sensor**: The new steering wheel position sensor could be faulty. Maybe I should test it with a multi-meter to see if it's sending proper signals.
2. **Wiring Issues**: When I took out the old sensor, did I maybe damage any wires or connectors? It would help to double-check all connections and look for frayed wires.
3. **Communication Error**: The sensors in cars often use CAN bus communication. If there was a disruption during installation, like disconnecting something without proper protocol, it might have messed up the network. Maybe I need to reset the modules or relearn them using an OBD-II scanner.
4. **Ground Issues**: Sometimes, poor grounding can cause electrical problems. I should check if all ground connections are solid and not corroded.
5. **Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Issue**: If replacing the sensor didn't fix things, maybe the PCM needs a relearn procedure or even replacement.
6. **Corrosion or Moisture**: Did any moisture get into the connectors? That could cause intermittent issues with communication.
7. **Other Fault Codes**: Maybe there are other codes besides P0528 (steering angle sensor). I should use an OBD-II scanner to check for more DTCs and see if they can be cleared or need attention.
I think my next steps would be:
- Use a scan tool to read all fault codes. If it's only the steering wheel position sensor, maybe that's isolated. But traction control issues might point elsewhere.
- Check all wiring connections around where I worked on—the steering column and under the dash area for any signs of damage or corrosion.
- Test the new sensor with a multi-meter to ensure it's functioning correctly compared to specifications.
- If everything seems okay, maybe try relearning the stability control system through the scan tool. Some GM vehicles require this after certain repairs.
If none of that works, I might have to consider replacing other components like the ABS module or PCM, but those are more involved and expensive.
**************************************************************************
The issue with your 2006 Chevrolet Trailblazer's traction control and repair lights coming on after replacing the steering wheel position sensor could be due to several factors. Here is a structured approach to diagnose and potentially resolve the problem:
### Possible Causes:
1. **Faulty Sensor**: The new steering wheel position sensor might be defective.
2. **Wiring Issues**: Damage or corrosion in the wiring harness during installation.
3. **Communication Error**: Disruption of CAN bus communication due to improper protocol use during repair.
4. **Grounding Problems**: Poor grounding leading to electrical issues.
5. **PCM Issue**: The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) might need relearning or replacement.
6. **Corrosion/Moisture**: Moisture ingress affecting connectors.
### Next Steps:
1. **Scan for Fault Codes**:
- Use an OBD-II scanner to read all DTCs, not just P0528. Look for additional codes related to traction control or other systems.
2. **Inspect Wiring and Connections**:
- Check the wiring harness around the steering column and under the dashboard for damage or corrosion.
3. **Test the Sensor**:
- Use a multi-meter to verify the new sensor's functionality against specifications.
4. **Relearn Stability Control System**:
- If necessary, use a scan tool to relearn the stability control system as per GM protocols.
5. **Check for Other Issues**:
- Ensure there are no other underlying issues like corrosion or moisture affecting components.
### Conclusion:
If these steps don't resolve the issue, consider more involved solutions such as replacing the ABS module or PCM. However, start with simpler diagnostics to isolate and address the root cause before proceeding to more complex repairs.
Hope This Helps...
PS... Nomic's *GPT4ALL* is a FREE Locally Installed, Privacy Focused Artificial Intelligence that allows for using a PRIVATE LLM completely Off Line and without any costs for Tokens. Find it Here for FREE Download, Installation and use a Variety of available Ollama Based LLMs (Large Language Models) that suit your own Windows, MAC-OS or Linux OS Based Computer Hardware:
GPT4All - Private & Local AI Chatbot
Run open-source AI models locally on your device. GPT4All delivers private, high-performance AI with no cloud required—your data stays on your machine.
Last edited:
benjaminblazer
Member
While I have yet to try anything yet because of the massive snow storm, I have done some research about the installation of the sensor. Apparently you arent allowed to move the wheel at all when installing same with the sensor itself and I remember taking out that pin before install because no instructions of course but also no video said not to. So after taking off the old one you have to keep the wheel at 0 degrees and remove the pin on the sensor after installation of everything. So im going to try and reinstall a new one first using that procedure, then try all the diagnostics above, thank you.I queried my Off Line *GPT4ALL* AI using the more exotic LLM called "DeepSeek-R1-Qwen-14B" ... A Large Language Model with a fairly robust Machine Learned Knowledge Corpus, just to see if there might be an additional *Nugget* of a Diagnostic Suggestion.
*IT* responded as follows...(Noting that you might need a Higher End Bi-Directional Scan Tool for some of these suggestions). You will observe that ALL of the AI's "Thinking" behind these suggestions are completely revealed (Known as "Chain Of Thought" Reasoning) ...like *IT's* Inner Voice is Narrating what it provides... and how it arrived at these ideas by "Thoroughly THINKING Things Through...":
Prompt: This request for assistance involves a 2006 Chevrolet Trailblazer with the 4.2L In Line 6 Cylinder Engine: I know this thread is super old but I finally got the time to replace the steering wheel position sensor... well after doing so, the traction control and repair light come on every single time I turn the car on, almost like I either got a bad one out of the box, or wiring on it went after I replaced it?
Response: Okay, so I just replaced the steering wheel position sensor on my 2006 Chevrolet Trailblazer with a 4.2L Inline-6 engine. Now every time I start the car, the traction control and repair lights come on. Hmm, that's frustrating because it feels like either the new part is bad or something went wrong during installation.
First off, maybe I got a faulty sensor from the store. But how would I know? Maybe I should check if the old one was working before swapping it out. Wait, no, the problem started after replacing it, so perhaps the new one isn't compatible or defective. Or maybe there's an issue with the wiring harness when I took it apart.
I remember reading somewhere that these sensors are part of the stability control system and they communicate with other modules like the ABS or ECU. So if the sensor is off, those systems might not work correctly, triggering the lights. But why would replacing one component cause multiple issues?
Let me think about possible causes:
1. **Bad Sensor**: The new steering wheel position sensor could be faulty. Maybe I should test it with a multi-meter to see if it's sending proper signals.
2. **Wiring Issues**: When I took out the old sensor, did I maybe damage any wires or connectors? It would help to double-check all connections and look for frayed wires.
3. **Communication Error**: The sensors in cars often use CAN bus communication. If there was a disruption during installation, like disconnecting something without proper protocol, it might have messed up the network. Maybe I need to reset the modules or relearn them using an OBD-II scanner.
4. **Ground Issues**: Sometimes, poor grounding can cause electrical problems. I should check if all ground connections are solid and not corroded.
5. **Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Issue**: If replacing the sensor didn't fix things, maybe the PCM needs a relearn procedure or even replacement.
6. **Corrosion or Moisture**: Did any moisture get into the connectors? That could cause intermittent issues with communication.
7. **Other Fault Codes**: Maybe there are other codes besides P0528 (steering angle sensor). I should use an OBD-II scanner to check for more DTCs and see if they can be cleared or need attention.
I think my next steps would be:
- Use a scan tool to read all fault codes. If it's only the steering wheel position sensor, maybe that's isolated. But traction control issues might point elsewhere.
- Check all wiring connections around where I worked on—the steering column and under the dash area for any signs of damage or corrosion.
- Test the new sensor with a multi-meter to ensure it's functioning correctly compared to specifications.
- If everything seems okay, maybe try relearning the stability control system through the scan tool. Some GM vehicles require this after certain repairs.
If none of that works, I might have to consider replacing other components like the ABS module or PCM, but those are more involved and expensive.
**************************************************************************
The issue with your 2006 Chevrolet Trailblazer's traction control and repair lights coming on after replacing the steering wheel position sensor could be due to several factors. Here is a structured approach to diagnose and potentially resolve the problem:
### Possible Causes:
1. **Faulty Sensor**: The new steering wheel position sensor might be defective.
2. **Wiring Issues**: Damage or corrosion in the wiring harness during installation.
3. **Communication Error**: Disruption of CAN bus communication due to improper protocol use during repair.
4. **Grounding Problems**: Poor grounding leading to electrical issues.
5. **PCM Issue**: The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) might need relearning or replacement.
6. **Corrosion/Moisture**: Moisture ingress affecting connectors.
### Next Steps:
1. **Scan for Fault Codes**:
- Use an OBD-II scanner to read all DTCs, not just P0528. Look for additional codes related to traction control or other systems.
2. **Inspect Wiring and Connections**:
- Check the wiring harness around the steering column and under the dashboard for damage or corrosion.
3. **Test the Sensor**:
- Use a multi-meter to verify the new sensor's functionality against specifications.
4. **Relearn Stability Control System**:
- If necessary, use a scan tool to relearn the stability control system as per GM protocols.
5. **Check for Other Issues**:
- Ensure there are no other underlying issues like corrosion or moisture affecting components.
### Conclusion:
If these steps don't resolve the issue, consider more involved solutions such as replacing the ABS module or PCM. However, start with simpler diagnostics to isolate and address the root cause before proceeding to more complex repairs.
Hope This Helps...
PS... Nomic's *GPT4ALL* is a FREE Locally Installed, Privacy Focused Artificial Intelligence that allows for using a PRIVATE LLM completely Off Line and without any costs for Tokens. Find it Here for FREE Download, Installation and use a Variety of available Ollama Based LLMs (Large Language Models) that suit your own Windows, MAC-OS or Linux OS Based Computer Hardware:
GPT4All - Private & Local AI Chatbot
Run open-source AI models locally on your device. GPT4All delivers private, high-performance AI with no cloud required—your data stays on your machine.
If that fails, as per indicated higher in this thread, you may need to update and calibrate the EBCM.
benjaminblazer
Member
How hard is that to do, finally got the time to put a new one in, pulled the pin after full installation and still showing up as soon as I turn the wheel
You need an adapter, like a J2534 pass-through, that can program modules. On your 06, you should be able to use a Tech 2 and a laptop loaded with the Tis2000 software. A J2534 alone, you could use the ACDelco TDS system with a subscription.
benjaminblazer
Member
Wow, so 200 just to reprogram a stupid steering angle sensor that wasnt even necessary to replace, I hate this vehicle
You think a shop would charge around the same price?
sorry if this is dumb... but a couple post back you posted some install procedures which indicate the steering had to be in "0" position.... how did you determine that at the time of the removal of the original unit?
benjaminblazer
Member
The first install i did not know this because no instructions were given on the video or the product. The second install i just did it was as straight as I could get it but obv wasnt perfect so was that the issue?
You think that's bad? You should see all the crap my 2021 Sierra has!Wow, so 200 just to reprogram a stupid steering angle sensor that wasnt even necessary to replace, I hate this vehicle
You might not need a dealer level scanner like that to do just the relearn but one that can do some resets and calibrations. I suggested the J2534 for the possibility that you need to replace the EBCM but that would require buying a subscription to GDS for 3 days at $84CAD and SPS for 1 VIN for 2 years at $59CAD.
There are some scanners on Amazon that can do recalibrations. Cheapest option I found was this one. First year is free and then $49USD but even without a renewed subscription, it can be used as a regular scanner. I would check first with TopDon to be sure it can do the Steering recalibration on your specific truck.
benjaminblazer
Member
So i ended up getting it just to try it out because it was 1 day shipping and they wouldnt respond to my email.You think that's bad? You should see all the crap my 2021 Sierra has!
You might not need a dealer level scanner like that to do just the relearn but one that can do some resets and calibrations. I suggested the J2534 for the possibility that you need to replace the EBCM but that would require buying a subscription to GDS for 3 days at $84CAD and SPS for 1 VIN for 2 years at $59CAD.
There are some scanners on Amazon that can do recalibrations. Cheapest option I found was this one. First year is free and then $49USD but even without a renewed subscription, it can be used as a regular scanner. I would check first with TopDon to be sure it can do the Steering recalibration on your specific truck.
Anyway, unfortunately recalibration is not supported on my vehicle, but I did read up on a couple of the code that they listed, including my p0171 issue.
They state that the mixture between fuel and air is monitored by the ecm. Then when I look at these codes, it mentioned ecm connection failure. What are your thoughts?
p0171 is not related to this thread. If you want to look into it, you will need to start a new thread. But I would fix the rest below first as this may be a simple fix.
C0040 is a common error that will inhibit Stabilitrak and ABS. It could be the reason for the C0244. Fix the sensor issue first but diagnose it properly. Check live data to see what speed you are getting at all the sensors. The most likely problem is a wheel hub going bad or a bad/cheap new hub. As it gets worn close to the point of failure, the tone ring inside gives false readings to the sensor. On older trucks, this would give an ABS activation when coming to a normal stop. Another possibility is rust jacking under the sensor. They added a new code (maybe the C0244) to prevent that unwanted ABS activation but the wheel hub or sensor is going bad.
U1300, U1064, U1016 is bad. That means the whole network is down and IIRC, means it is shorted to ground. The BCM is unable to communicate with the PCM on the normal network however they have a backup network. Is anything else not working? If the Class 2 network goes down, a lot of stuff won't work. A lot of diagnosing to try and fix this and may be beyond the scope of this thread. Ran it by AI and got this:
Codes U1300, U1064, and U1016 on a Chevy indicate a communication failure on the Class 2 serial bus between modules, often involving the Body Control Module (BCM), PCM, or instrument panel. These are frequently caused by low battery voltage, poor ground connections, or a shorted module.Common Causes & SolutionsBattery/Charging System: Low voltage can trigger these codes. Check for 12.8V+ at rest and 14V+ while charging.Ground Connections: Check the main ground wires on the back of the engine and the BCM ground, as corrosion here is a common cause for multiple, seemingly unrelated U-codes.Module Communication (U1016/U1064): These indicate the BCM or instrument cluster is not receiving data from the engine/powertrain module. Inspect the harness for corrosion.Class 2 Circuit Short (U1300): Indicates a malfunction in the network wiring itself, often causing the system to go down. Troubleshooting Steps
And I think I I saw something in one of those threads that said to check the ignition switch.
C0040 is a common error that will inhibit Stabilitrak and ABS. It could be the reason for the C0244. Fix the sensor issue first but diagnose it properly. Check live data to see what speed you are getting at all the sensors. The most likely problem is a wheel hub going bad or a bad/cheap new hub. As it gets worn close to the point of failure, the tone ring inside gives false readings to the sensor. On older trucks, this would give an ABS activation when coming to a normal stop. Another possibility is rust jacking under the sensor. They added a new code (maybe the C0244) to prevent that unwanted ABS activation but the wheel hub or sensor is going bad.
U1300, U1064, U1016 is bad. That means the whole network is down and IIRC, means it is shorted to ground. The BCM is unable to communicate with the PCM on the normal network however they have a backup network. Is anything else not working? If the Class 2 network goes down, a lot of stuff won't work. A lot of diagnosing to try and fix this and may be beyond the scope of this thread. Ran it by AI and got this:
Codes U1300, U1064, and U1016 on a Chevy indicate a communication failure on the Class 2 serial bus between modules, often involving the Body Control Module (BCM), PCM, or instrument panel. These are frequently caused by low battery voltage, poor ground connections, or a shorted module.Common Causes & SolutionsBattery/Charging System: Low voltage can trigger these codes. Check for 12.8V+ at rest and 14V+ while charging.Ground Connections: Check the main ground wires on the back of the engine and the BCM ground, as corrosion here is a common cause for multiple, seemingly unrelated U-codes.Module Communication (U1016/U1064): These indicate the BCM or instrument cluster is not receiving data from the engine/powertrain module. Inspect the harness for corrosion.Class 2 Circuit Short (U1300): Indicates a malfunction in the network wiring itself, often causing the system to go down. Troubleshooting Steps
- Clear Codes & Reset: Clear all codes with a scan tool and perform a full system reset by disconnecting the battery for 10–15 minutes.
- Check Grounds: Clean ground points on the engine block and near the battery.
- Inspect Fuses: Check the "RDO1" (Radio) fuse and other electronics-related fuses in the underhood block.
- Module Test: If codes return, test for a short in the network by disconnecting modules one by one (using a splice pack if equipped) to identify which one is pulling down the data line.
And I think I I saw something in one of those threads that said to check the ignition switch.
Well, sort of. The early years do have have a secondary circuit that bypasses the SP205 splice pack and runs between the PCM and BCM. However, I have traced the two different circuits on a BCM card and discovered that almost immediately upon entering the circuit board the two wires are joined together by a trace on the board. So anything that takes down the primary circuit will aslo take down this redundant circuit as well.
I have wondered why they bothered with this secondary circuit. Maybe it had to do with diagnostics procedures that involved removing the SP205 splice pack comb? The redundant circuit would then retain PCM/BCM communication. Unless there is an electrical issue like a short to voltage or ground.
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