Transfer case fluid change.

Trkdrvremt

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Joined
Oct 22, 2014
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351
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NJ
I see a lot of talk about changing the fluid every 50,000. My question is this: I have no idea if and when it has been done on my TB. I am at 103,473.... Would I be opening a can of worms by changing it now, assuming it has never been done?
 
If you don't do it now it may not work when you want to use it.
 
Be sure to remove the fill plug before you drain it. Some fill plugs are frozen on and can't be removed... that way you know you can fill it after it drains.

Do it as soon as you can. For the most part, the fluid is only obtained at GM dealers. I believe it is Auto-Track II, so call around and don't assume it is available anywhere.

Good luck!
 
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x2 on removing the fill plug first.
 
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And remember a dead transfer case can sieze and take out 2wd as well. Some folks at the old site tried to rationalize they never used 4wd so why bother changing the fluid.
 
Ok.. So whats involved in changing the fluid? Any special tools needed? And how much fluid does it normally take?
 
Best case scenario, you have 47K miles before you need to change the fluid.
Worst case scenario, you are 53K passed change time.
For the cost (usually less than $20 for the two bottles) I'd go with the change now.

All you need is a metric Allen wrench. I don't remember the size, a drain pan (it comes out fast), and either a hand pump or tubing to get the new fluid in.
 
Do it ASAP. Use the GM Auto Trac II as mentioned above. I believe it is a 10 mm Hex wrench (Allen). Fill back up to 1/4 inch below overflow of fill plug IIRC. Easy Peezy...Do it!
 
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Yes, you will have to find a way to get it in because of the way the bottles are designed and the angle, there isn't any way to pour it in. I used a small oil can that was brand new. Change it if you are not sure. It is cheap insurance for a pretty expensive part that you would not want to replace.

The dealerships or oil change places really overcharge (in my opinion) for this one - do it yourself. But the fluid comes only from the dealer as far as I know.
 
Benson's Auto Parts in Ontario also carries it, as well as other ACDelco fluids and parts.
 
Ordered the fluid off amazon... 7.49 a bottle also picked up a new selector switch so shipping was free... Just need to pick up the hex bit and the fluid pump and I'm good to go.. Now, next question is when I change the front and rear diff fluid do I also need the GM additive?
 
Include O'Reillys in places that now sell AutoTrak II. The local store had to get it from the warehouse (one day turn around)
 
Safe bet would be to use lube that already has it. The specified fluid is synthetic 75w90 gear oil. Most have the additive. Best place to check is your owner's manual.
 
I'd recommend getting a hex socket set over a hex key in this situation, using a ratchet allows you to pick a more ergonomic position with limited room (provided your ratchet has a low swing angle, many above the bargain-basement level do) and it's easy to get more leverage if you need it.
 
I use hex keys...no issues
 
HARDTRAILZ said:
I use hex keys...no issues
It's up to the user in the end, I suppose.

Also, if you're having issues with the plugs being stuck, try a penetrating solution. I've seen a lot of people remark on how well making some from 50/50 ATF and acetone seems to be working. Heat is also an option but be careful with it.
 

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