Transmission

bbarker89

bbarker89

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Joined
Dec 19, 2013
Posts
156
Guys i have almost 120,000 miles when i got my oil changed a few weeks ago they said it was about time for a transmission flush. i inspected the fulid myself it was a little brown. im not wanting to spend $150 dollars for a flush. i would like to do this myself. im just not sure how to go about it. do i just drop the pan and take a turkey baster and take the rest of it out? where is the transmission even located at? Im not very car savvy. any help would be appreciated
 
Not to be discouraging but if you don't know where the transmission is, I wouldn't be messing with this. Check around at a few other places for a price to do this.
A lot of people will say don't do a flush, just do a drain and replace fluid and filter. That however only changes less than half of the fluid. A novice can very quickly get in over their head doing this. You would need the truck raised up to allow access to the transmission pan, these don't have a drain plug so very messy emptying what fluid is in there. Once the pan is off, there is nothing to baste :smile: Then you have to dispose of the fluid, etc. I am fairly handy and I would hesitate to tackle this, knowing full well that I could certainly do it. Just don't know if the perceived savings is worth the hassle. It is going to cost you for the fluid and filter anyway, the difference is the cost of equipment and labour.

Doug
 
+1 on not being rude, but if you don't know where the transmission is you are in WAY over your head on this. It's a dirty, slimy, sh$tty job, and if someone was willing to do it properly for $150 and use good quality fluid, that's worth its weight in gold.
 
I had no problem paying for a flush. Saves me the time and cleanup. $150maintenance cost or $1500 tranny repair? See if you can find a coupon for it to save some. Think I paid $99 for the flush before fees and taxes. You may never have to flush it again.

Use the newer DexronVI fluid.
 
Personally I don't see $150 being too bad. Considering some places (and this is back in Iowa, a little cheaper than over here) would easily walk off with $200-250 or more, especially since we're dealing with what, 15 quarts of fluid that isn't too cheap? And the "specials" some places offer on full 4x4 service is a joke. Tranny, diffs, and transfer case, $500-600 or more. That is the $200-250 tranny flush, and then a buttload more for systems that I find a LOT easier to do a drain/fill on. Could probably do all that yourself for 30% of the price (of course, considering you know what you're getting into).
 
I feel I must add...

I went to a local tire and lube chain that has several regional stores and this one was in a town of 60k pop. I figured bigger shop sees more traffic and has done a GMT360 or 2. Well after seeing the receipt I asked why the filter had not been changed in the tranny AFTER the flush. (Wasn't done at all) The sales guy tried telling me it wasn't necessary to change them. I was at 91xxx miles and went to show him my owners manual and called him out. Another guy at the counter said he could get it done in an hour. Said I gotta go and I ASKED for it to be done after the flush when I first arrived. He gave me a card and said he would do it for $90 if I come back. I changed the filter 5k miles later with another 5 qts.

Be that guy if you bring it in. If they are cool you will be an easy customer for them!
 
Please remove. Double post.
 
I avoid chain places like Jiffy Lube. Seems like they will hire anyone off the street. Plus they will rob you faster than a stealership. I will either DIY, take it to a local shop I know and trust, or last resort take to the dealership.
 
I have done my tranny 2X now. There is a how to at the os that explains it very well. That said it is like everyone says, dirty shitty and you should be mechanical or this could go south. If you take your time and have faith you might be able to do it. Just research it before you start so you know what you are getting in to.
 
bbarker89 said:
Guys i have almost 120,000 miles when i got my oil changed a few weeks ago they said it was about time for a transmission flush. i inspected the fulid myself it was a little brown. im not wanting to spend $150 dollars for a flush. i would like to do this myself. im just not sure how to go about it. do i just drop the pan and take a turkey baster and take the rest of it out? where is the transmission even located at? Im not very car savvy. any help would be appreciated
Click to expand...

Changing the tranny oil and filter is not a difficult task, however you will need some time and you will have to get your hands dirty. If your tranny pan doesn't have a drain I would suggest you install one when the pan is off, just for next time.

Folks are correct, you will only change about 5 quarts if you just drop the pan, not bad but not a complete change. The system has about 13-14 quarts for a full change.

A DISCLAIMER I do not like the term FLUSH. I like the term CHANGE. Anyone who hooks up a machine and back flushes or just pulls the fluid out doesn't cut it for me. The filter needs to be changed every time. Once you have done it yourself and seen the gunk that develops and needs to be cleaned you may agree.

Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum

This link shows how to change the entire amount of fluid in the tranny. Some folks will not agree with this method, however I have done it and that was 50K miles ago and still running strong. It will take the better part of a day or 1/2 day depending upon your experience.

Not really difficult to do, just be careful, watch where the bolts come from and be careful of the wires in the tranny.

I prefer Amsoil synthetic tranny fluid, but any good Dex VI should work. One other thing, i recommend you install a tranny cooler even if you don't pull anything. 90% of tranny's die due to overheating.

Good luck
 
That is the link on how to I used also. Printed off a copy for future use, and comes in handy while doing it. Spells it out well and is I think well written and detailed.
 
thanks for the replies guys! im still thinking about what i want to do. money is no issue, its just i want to learn and know how to do these things. i want to be one with my car. im 24 years old and to me i should know the odds and ends of vehicle maintenance. i like to get dirty and im handsy
 
Then go for it.

make sure you plan for the mess when you drop the pan,.

and get a 3/8 torque wrench so you do not over tighten the screws putting them back in.

and use your fingers to get everything started.

look at a bunch of U-tube videos, read up, and go for it. (not on a sunday evening, start Saturday when you are nice and fresh, and have a friend around who can drive you to the store when you screw something up. assuming you have a normal weekend)


have to learn sometime. (if you want to)

take lots of pictures, and we will be happy to tell you what you screwed up.

:thumbsup:


View attachment 32087

the rectangle thing to the left of my rusty front drive shaft is the transmission you won't have a front drive shaft on your 2WD

View attachment 32088

make sure the pan is nice and clean before you put it back.

View attachment 32089

here is a view of the transmission with the pan removed and the filter out. you can see that the exhaust shield on the left is a little close to the transmission, which makes it a little tricky to get the pan out.
 

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You can eliminate at least 50% of the mess if you inset a tube down the dipstick tube and pump out the fluid from the pan.
 
haha thanks guys! i wont be doing it alone. my girlfriends dad offered his help. Hes a parts manager at Cadillac. He knows a thing or two about cars
 
bbarker89 said:
haha thanks guys! i wont be doing it alone. my girlfriends dad offered his help. Hes a parts manager at Cadillac. He knows a thing or two about cars
Click to expand...

Then you will be fine and next time you won't need his help. The new filter comes with a new collar for the filter. They are a pain to get out so if yours is not damaged leave it in and just put the new filter into it.
 
Be cautious, but don't be scared. Be confident but not foolhardy. Most of the steps are pretty fool-proof if you're above the level of a caveman with a club hammering at it.

Just make sure the filter is firmly affixed (without being too rough of course), the gasket is installed properly (which your help will likely know), and you should follow proper torque procedures when reinstalling the bolts to make sure the gasket seals well (which he should know too).

It's scary to think you're involving yourself with a piece of equipment as complicated as this, but since you're going no further than the pan it's actually not even remotely as bad as it seems. If nothing else, printing off a guide, having a laptop nearby with an appropriate Youtube vid pulled up, or dropping a couple-three Hamiltons on a Haynes may keep you level-headed.

As stated before, pictures are always welcome. The more experience that can be posted to this site, the better for everyone else also going through this same thing (plus if something is amiss, there's visual reference). Personally I regret not doing step-by-step photos when I was doing my front brakes, could have really helped someone maybe, but at the time my phone battery was about dead so I just snapped a shot of what was left of the pads. Still got the rotors too if anyone wants to see, by the way.
 
Do not forget to have a beer or two handy while doing the work. It just makes it all better.:thumbsup:
 
Dropping the pan and changing the transmission fluid is actually pretty easy. Some things to be aware of:
1) it will probably be very messy and you will get fluid all over the floor below what you are working on. so have lots of paper towels and a big drain container. Once you do it you'll get a better idea of how to deal with the mess and preventing it.
2) Be careful with all of the bolts you have to take out and remove, do not strip them, etc. Just take your time.
3) Clean the pan out really good, and try and clean the mating surface real good as well, without scratching it all up.
4) The new gasket can be a little tricky to put on and bolt the pan on, just be persistent and patient.

I think the thing to remember is even though it's a simple job, allow yourself plenty of time, be patient and expect a mess. Also check your fluid level correctly at the end. (vehicle level, engine running in park etc)

Personally, I don't do the flush, I just drop the pan and change fluid (40% or whatever I know) and filter. I always worry about the flush breaking crap loose and causing problems.
 
dmanns67 said:
I avoid chain places like Jiffy Lube. Seems like they will hire anyone off the street. Plus they will rob you faster than a stealership. I will either DIY, take it to a local shop I know and trust, or last resort take to the dealership.
Click to expand...

Exactly... The average level of competence in many of the oil and tire places ranks right at about a monkey with a wrench category. Over the years (prior to, I was an ASE certified master tech with engine rebuild, suspension, brakes, automatic transmissions, axles, drivability, service writer, and auto body) I have called on hundreds of shops via my Snap On dealership and also while I was a rep for Safety Kleen. I've seen who turns wrenches at most places, including dealerships. Most shops have one guy that "sort of" knows how to be a mechanic (different from a technician). Dealerships often have several technicians who are trained, but they get the gravy jobs and the rookies get all the difficult stuff. Almost everyone relies on the computer to guide them in their work. Best are individual mom and pop shops where someone with some tech ability went out on his own to start a business. Find one of those for your auto repairs.

Flushing, per se, is fine. The reason it gets such a bad rap is due to the fact that many people wait to do the flush until AFTER they feel the transmission acting up, then they blame the flush for the demise of their drivetrain. Silly people... If they had flushed on a regular basis (with filter change) they most likely would not be having problems now.

Can one do a home flush? Absolutely... Helps to have two people!

First, drop the pan and change the filter. Just basic hand tools to do that job and not really much that can get screwed up. Remove all the pan bolts except those along the front edge of the pan (facing the engine). Get a big X huge drain bucket under the pan. Then very slowly start to loosen the bolts remaining along the front of the pan a half turn at a time. Fluid will start to run from the rear edge of the pan as the pan droops on the still-remaining bolts. Slowly continue loosening the bolts, getting as much oil out of the pan as possible before finally removing all the bolts and lowering and draining the pan into the drain bucket. remove the filter by taking out the bolts that hold it in place. Make sure the rubber o-ring or gasket comes out as well. Lube the new o-ring or gasket and slide the new filter into place and re-install the bolts. Either clean the rubber gasket or install the new gasket that comes with the filter kit and re-install the pan. Add 4-5 qts fluid.

Find the return line coming out of the transmission cooler and disconnect it from the cooler. Route that line into a bucket. Start the vehicle and let it idle (don't try to drive it!). One pours new fluid into the filler tube (dipstick tube) while the other watches what comes out the return line. Once the fluid runs clear (new, red) the flush is finished. Replace the line and check for leaks. Warm up the transmission and check for fluid level WHILE HOT and after cycling through the gears several times. Fluid level is checked WITH ENGINE RUNNING AND TRANSMISSION IN PARK.

DO use the new Dextron VI - it is fully synthetic. I also advocate adding one bottle of the proper Lubeguard additive to prolong life and reduce shudder (all the best transmission shops do so!). LUBEGARD Automatic Transmission Fluid Protectant
 
Honestly I just did this and it was not messy at all. I bought a cheap bin with lid for storage etc from Walmart that was wide and just dropped the pan into that and barely got a drop on the ground.
 
girlfriend's dad? don't let him drop the car on you.

:eek:
 
JerryIrons said:
Dropping the pan and changing the transmission fluid is actually pretty easy. Some things to be aware of:
1) it will probably be very messy and you will get fluid all over the floor below what you are working on. so have lots of paper towels and a big drain container. Once you do it you'll get a better idea of how to deal with the mess and preventing it.
2) Be careful with all of the bolts you have to take out and remove, do not strip them, etc. Just take your time.
3) Clean the pan out really good, and try and clean the mating surface real good as well, without scratching it all up.
4) The new gasket can be a little tricky to put on and bolt the pan on, just be persistent and patient.

I think the thing to remember is even though it's a simple job, allow yourself plenty of time, be patient and expect a mess. Also check your fluid level correctly at the end. (vehicle level, engine running in park etc)

Personally, I don't do the flush, I just drop the pan and change fluid (40% or whatever I know) and filter. I always worry about the flush breaking crap loose and causing problems.
Click to expand...

Thats what im afraid of. Girlfriends said dont ever flush our trans is notorious for messing up
 
RedEnvoyDenali said:
Changing the tranny oil and filter is not a difficult task, however you will need some time and you will have to get your hands dirty. If your tranny pan doesn't have a drain I would suggest you install one when the pan is off, just for next time.

Folks are correct, you will only change about 5 quarts if you just drop the pan, not bad but not a complete change. The system has about 13-14 quarts for a full change.

A DISCLAIMER I do not like the term FLUSH. I like the term CHANGE. Anyone who hooks up a machine and back flushes or just pulls the fluid out doesn't cut it for me. The filter needs to be changed every time. Once you have done it yourself and seen the gunk that develops and needs to be cleaned you may agree.

Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum

This link shows how to change the entire amount of fluid in the tranny. Some folks will not agree with this method, however I have done it and that was 50K miles ago and still running strong. It will take the better part of a day or 1/2 day depending upon your experience.

Not really difficult to do, just be careful, watch where the bolts come from and be careful of the wires in the tranny.

I prefer Amsoil synthetic tranny fluid, but any good Dex VI should work. One other thing, i recommend you install a tranny cooler even if you don't pull anything. 90% of tranny's die due to overheating.

Good luck
Click to expand...

Total thread drift...saw were you were from and thought of this.

[video=youtube;TKUDRW9EA2c]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TKUDRW9EA2c[/video]
 
The video is labelled "funny," but it's not funny. Grown Ups was about 30 minutes of in-jokes that we all laughed at just to feel like we're "connected" to the superstar cast, and 60 minutes of trying to make us cry.

Whatever happened to stuff like Big Daddy and Happy Gilmore?

Alright, let me remove the derailer from the track here. Transmission.
 
Is the bell housing easy to get to drain completely? Or is just best to drop the pan and put However much it takes back in?
 
Follow the link from post 10. You end up pumping the pan almost empty , dropping the pan changing the filter and then exchanging the torque converter oil. This way does it all.
 
Now that you're sold on doing it yourself: Let me add a couple things- I had a transmission rebuilt at 160K

1. PLEASE make sure you get Dexron 6 Fluid- Don't use multi-weight. on my last flush before the transmission change, i used multi weight.... it was thinner- and it pushed past the pump seal. My transmission was 100% fine, but leaked out the pump seal. That last flush was approximately at 130,000 miles- right where you are now.

2. If it has never been flushed, I wouldn't start now. I'd just drop the pan, change the filter, re-fill, and maybe shorten the next change to 20K miles. Old-school guy here.... if the transmission has 100k on it and never been flushed- Don't. Loosens up all the stuff that is filling in the grooves on the bands and such.


Sorry for the non-technical explanation ... just sharing my experience.
 
triz said:
Total thread drift...saw were you were from and thought of this.

[video=youtube;TKUDRW9EA2c]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TKUDRW9EA2c[/video]
Click to expand...

That was comical. The best part is that he sounded like one of my countryman from Newfoundland.

That would be like telling a Texan he sounds like a New Yorker. That may be dangerous. LOL :yes:
 
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