Very Noisy AC Compressor

[l008com]

I've got a very noisy AC compressor. Sounds like what you'd traditionally think is a bad power steering pump. A constant loud whine. It does it all the time, whether the AC is on or off. I had my mechanic look at it and confirm it was the AC compressor, not something else (like the tensioner pulley, if only!). He said you can replace the bearing and clutch without replacing the whole compressor, but he didn't want to do that because he's had bad luck with that repair not lasting.

So I'm thinking, it sounds like something you may be able to do yourself, as long as you don't have to remove the compressor to do it? Even if the repair doesn't last forever, I'll probably save more than enough money to make it worth my while to do it myself.

Is this a DIY repair?

Do the 5.3's have the same compressor as the 4.2's? Is the replacement process the same?
If these engines have different parts/procedures to swap, is my AC the same as the AC on all the full size trucks with 5.3s?

The V8 has such a beautiful sound, but mine is drowned out by the horrible sound of a failing pump. But at least the air is still nice and cold. It's been a hot summer, and that's a very good thing.

 

[AtlWrk]

The fact that it does it whether the AC is on or off makes me think it's not actually the AC compressor. With the AC off the clutch bearing is spinning and the internals of the compressor are stationary. With the AC on the opposite is true. If its the clutch bearing or the internals making the noise you would expect it to go away with either turning the AC on or off. You have confirmed the clutch actually engages when you turn the AC on, correct?

On the 5.3s the AC has its own belt so you could take that off and see if the noise goes away. If it does then you can be sure its the AC (or its tensioner) and not another accessory like the alternator. The 5.3 and 4.2 AC compressors are mirror images of each other and therefore not interchangeable, but otherwise are the same design (meaning procedures involving the clutch/bearing would apply to either). I'm not sure about compatibility with other 5.3L trucks (pretty good chance though).

FWIW, I have replaced my AC clutch bearing (even though it turned out to be the alternator bearings). It was not particularly hard on the 4.2L and the compressor didn't have to come off. I'm not sure how much access you have on the 5.3. The only catch is whether or not you can get a gear puller mounted to the front to pull the clutch off the compressor. To be clear I replaced the bearing only by removing it from the clutch (there's a procedure floating around here or the old site). I did not replace the clutch itself (IIRC correctly replacement clutch assemblies are difficult to source).

 

[l008com]

With the AC belt removed, I should be able to tell by hand spinning, if either the AC pulley or the AC belt tensioner are bad, right? I trust my mechanic but I'll still poke around a bit to be sure.

 

[AtlWrk]

Possibly yes, but maybe not. Without the side load of the belt and high speed of a running engine a marginal bearing may feel fine by hand even if it is failing. But while you're at it you might as well check all the accessories and pulleys. Trust but verify

 

[Sparky]

He's not officially wrong by saying it is the compressor, since that pulley bearing is officially not a serviceable part, however technically, it is likely the pulley bearing going out. It does spin still with the AC on or off, and that's how mine failed on my 4.2L, making a racket no matter whether AC was on or off.

Replacing the bearing is a heck of a lot cheaper than the entire compressor.

Not sure what the appropriate bearing would be for the AC pulley on a 5.3L is the only thing.

 

[Mooseman]

I think I've seen the bearing on eBay but not the clutch itself. Same as Sparky, I think it's just the bearing.

 

[djthumper]

I went through the bearing replacement process, it is fairly easy. You just have to be able to find the bearing.

 

[l008com]

You have to remove the clutch to get at the bearing anyway right? I'd rather do both if possible. I saw the bearing at autozone for $15. Does anyone sell a kit that has all of these parts ready to go?

Also, since the 4.2 and the 5.3 do have different compressors, should I be searching for silverado ac compressor parts, instead of trailblazer.

 

[Sparky]

Right, you do have to take the clutch (and clutch pulley) off. I don't know if you can get a whole new clutch by itself for those is the thing.

I don't know if the compressor is the same on the 5.3 TB as on the Silverado or not. It would make sense that it would be, but I really don't know.

 

[Paul Bell]

I went through the bearing replacement process, it is fairly easy. You just have to be able to find the bearing.

I just ATTEMPTED this job. Yes, it's a $12 bearing at Autozone. All went kinda well (the snap ring was very difficult and it can't be seen) but the pulley bearing would not allow itself to come out. I went for a complete unit.

CAREFUL not to tug on the wiring harness or you might damage the crank sensor wires-requiring starter removal to access it.

 

[Sparky]

I had a local shop press the old bearing out and press the new one in. They didn't even charge me as it took him maybe a minute to do.

 

[l008com]

The pulley itself looks pretty simple. You'd think you'd be able to buy a new pulley with the bearing already in and ready to go, and the new clutch, all in one easy to install kit. Save lots of ball busting that way.

 

[Sparky]

Oh I agree, but at least for the 4.2L's compressor there is no such part available separate from the entire compressor. Really irritating since you know they could easily supply those parts separate.

 

[l008com]

I climbed under my truck last night just to take a quick peak. Wow there is not much space AT ALL and it's wayyyyyy up there. I don't know if the compressor might be closer on the 4.2s since they do have a longer block, but on the 5.3, it's going to be quite a challenge to get at that pulley.

 

[Mike1973]

I too just went through this, I have a Buick Rainier 5.3, everything went sort of well, I removed the fan blade and shroud to provide much more needed space, I'm in Ontario, the bearing cost me 35.00 bucks. As Paul Bell said, I too had trouble removing the snap ring, you need a mirror to see it and my dexterity isn't the greatest, believe it or not it took me 5 hours screwing with it and about a dozen beer, although now that I think about it, possibly it would have been smarter to save the beer until after the job
I think the bearing was so bad that it was hindering the removal of the snap ring however once out the rest of the process took only an hour or so. I had the same symptoms as you, air worked fine but god awful noise from the compressor. When using the puller to remove the clutch wheel off the compressor be careful of those transmission cooling lines. All-in-all, I'm not too mechanically inclined and I was able to do it, so go for it, sure beats the garages quote of over a grand for a new compressor.
Good luck.

 

[AtlWrk]

Here's the article on the old site that I followed: http://forums.trailvoy.com/showthread.php?t=53918#/forumsite/20572/topics/53918?page=1

Once you remove the fan shroud (a process in itself) you'll have a lot more room to work. Can't guarantee anything without see a 5.3L for myself but should still be doable.

 

[Mike1973]

Yup, that's the instructions I followed, definitely doable on the 5.3 as mine is living proof

 

[l008com]

Any guides for removing the Fan?

I can find the new bearings easy enough. I was hoping to find a new clutch and ideally a whole new pulley but that doesn't look likely. But as long as I get the bearing, I should be ok.

I'm going to rent all the specialty tools at autozone so I should be good.
Did you guys press in the new bearings with a press, or did you hammer them in?

 

[AtlWrk]

I have a cheap-o HarborFreight arbor press that I used because I had it. It's not a particularly tight fit (which is why they swaged the edge of the pulley to hold the bearing) so a large hammer/mallet and drift or large socket should work.

 

[l008com]

My concern is that I might mess up the bearing hammering the new one in place. But once summer is over, I'll be able to take my time doing this since I won't need AC. So if it doesn't look like it's going well, maybe I'll just see if I can find someone with a press I can borrow.

 

[Mike1973]

Any guides for removing the Fan?

I can find the new bearings easy enough. I was hoping to find a new clutch and ideally a whole new pulley but that doesn't look likely. But as long as I get the bearing, I should be ok.

I'm going to rent all the specialty tools at autozone so I should be good.
Did you guys press in the new bearings with a press, or did you hammer them in?

I hammered mine in as in the instructions provided by the link on the old site. (actually, once the old bearing was out, I put it on top of the new one, and used it to hammer the new one in) The fan, I used a large crescent wrench and sledge hammer, took a few good whacks, you have to shock it off(hammer towards the passenger side) from there I removed, the two bolts on the upper left and right corners of the shroud and lifted everything out. (fan and shroud together) I got lucky, I was able to bend the shroud enough to get past the filler nozzle on the rad. (I have read that some people have to trim the shroud to get it past the nozzle)

 

[Matt]

To remove the fan and shroud, follow my article here: http://gmtnation.com/forums/threads/how-to-replace-the-water-pump.15639/

It's for the 4.2 but it should be the same procedure for the 5.3.

 

[l008com]

Cool thanks!

 

[Mooseman]

Put some penetrating fluid on the fan nut. On the 5.3, there are no bolts on the water pump pulley to use a chain. Another way would be to use an air hammer/zip gun on one edge of the hex to turn it in the proper direction.

 

[l008com]

Can you guys with the 5.3 confirm for me that it takes the 35mm x 50mm x 20mm bearing?

 

[Mike1973]

Can you guys with the 5.3 confirm for me that it takes the 35mm x 50mm x 20mm bearing?

That's the size I bought for my 2004 Rainier 5.3, not sure if they differ by year. I wasn't sure when I picked mine up either, as I recall from reading the post attached to the directions given on the old site I think most were this size. Sometimes you just have to play the odds.

 

[l008com]

Today I took the AC belt off. The noise was pretty loud and we're not likely to get many more 90° days at this point. And taking the belt off is step one to repairing it.

WOWOWOWOWOWOW it is so nice having that sound be gone. That engine sounds so good, I had forgotten just how good. It is one again music to my ears.

 

[Sparky]

One benefit of the separate AC belt on the V8 - easier AC delete. Although I find it only a temporary thing because I don't think I could permanently delete my AC on any car. I need to fix the AC on my Camaro because it sucks not having it available even though I don't use it that much.

 

[l008com]

Finally got around to giving this a try yesterday. Didn't work out so well. There are two solid (not flexible) lines that run right in front of my compressor pulley. It's not easy getting down there anyway, but with these two lines in the way, theres no room for the socket to back out as your unscrewing the bolt. And there's certainly no room for any kind of gear puller to actually remove the pulley. Kinda bummed. I'm open to suggestions but I'm feeling like I might be out of option at this point. I was starting to feel like, if I don't get that compressor spinning again soon, it may never work again by the time I fix the bearing.

 

[mrrsm]

I know this will be a Very Odd Suggestion for starters… but perhaps by purchasing an inexpensive Re manufactured AC Compressor WITH the Brand New Clutch and Wiring Harness Assembly for under $100.00 via eBay... You could simply Scavenge the AC-Clutch Assembly from the unit ...and use the entire unit & Bearing to simplify your repair:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-A-C-Comp...ash=item2822baefea:g:7WoAAOSwcLxYCKyP&vxp=mtr

As for the "How-To"... Generically… these two Delphi AC Compressor videos shows the need to use a Specialty Puller-Installer that may require just removing the Compressor Mount Bolts so that you can re-position the face of the compressor to gain enough access to use the Clutch Removal Tool if those two metal tube lines cannot be “coaxed” aside… and of course...it follows on with the need to use enough care to watch that the Aluminum Manifold with its H&L Pressure Freon Lines don’t get “pranged” and loosen from the Compressor:

“How-To” Delphi AC Compressor Clutch Repair:
Part I

Part II

This inexpensive GM AC Clutch Removal-Installer Tool Kit should work ...as long as some High Pressure Grease is applied to all of the thread lines of the Puller-Pusher:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/A-C-Compres...Auto-Air-Conditioning-Tool-/331836099651#rwid

Happy Holidays...and Best of Luck for 2017 ;>)

 

[l008com]

The problem is, that would simplify the wrong part. Once I get my pulley off, changing the bearing will probably be a pain sure, but it will be doable on a work bench. The problem is that it's impossible to get my pulley off. Whether or not I'm going to just bolt up a new one or replace the bearing doesn't matter. I do find it odd that no parts places sell the whole pulley with the bearing preinstalled. Seems odd, I definitely would have bought that if it were available.

 

[l008com]

After letting things soak into my brain for a while, i started to accept the idea that maybe removing those lines is something I can do. Does anyone know for sure what kind of lines they are? I assume they are oil cooler lines? If so, is there any special procedure to removing them? And reinstalling them when I'm done? If you remove the lines, I'm sure at least some oil will leak out, but is it going to gush out?

I'm a nuts and bolts kinda guy, I'm very weary about busting open lines. But at the same time, $20 vs $500+ just keeps bouncing around my brain.

 

[Mooseman]

They are transmission cooler lines. If they aren't too rusty, they should be removable. I do believe they are split in the middle. Both ends are held in with clips.

 

[Sparky]

And if they are rusty, you should replace them before they burst and spray transmission fluid all over.

 

[Loup]

One benefit of the separate AC belt on the V8 - easier AC delete. Although I find it only a temporary thing because I don't think I could permanently delete my AC on any car. I need to fix the AC on my Camaro because it sucks not having it available even though I don't use it that much.

For the A/C delete on the I6, pick up a Gates K060695 serpentine belt. Slips right on bypassing the idler pulley and A/C compressor.

 

[l008com]

So I never ended up doing this. I went about 2 years with no AC then had my mechanic replace the whole compressor. Good thing too because we've had some hot days so far this summer. Also this thread is from 2016.

 

[tyler]

Are there any benefits deleting the ac? Better radiator air flow?

 

[l008com]

Are there any benefits deleting the ac? Better radiator air flow?

You shave a lot of weight off the truck.

 

[tyler]

The compressor is only 35 lbs though

 

[l008com]

Ok, "a lot" is relative. That's still a good amount of weight.